[BigNoel (Noel)]

What is it? [see fig 1]
A small box designed to be connected to the baseplate supporting telescope on an EQ mount with the purpose of providing:
- power to the mount
- power to either a DSLR or cooled imaging CCD
- four dew heaters with variable control
- EQ mount and imaging control via INDI/Ekos system running on Raspberry Pi single board computer.
- Wireless connectivity to INDI system.

Why did I?
I don't have an observatory, I image either in the backyard or at a dark site, both have mains power available.
I wanted a way to minimise cabling around the mount and to simplify the setup.
I was in need of a dew heater and was already using a raspberry pi attached to the mount, and was running power cables to the mount, the camera and pi computer.
I figure I could put the pi in a box, with some PWM controllers to function as dew heaters plus some voltage regulators to power the camera.

I set about this first version as a learning exercise and proof of concept. I'll no doubt encounter problems I had never though of and will refine things in a later re-design.

Why should you?
Chances are this exact design isn't going to suit your needs 100%, which is why I haven't done a painstaking step-by-step write up. Instead I want to demonstrate how you might be able to come up with a neat solution that is perfect for your setup and give you some ideas on how to go about making it. If you want to know more detail of anything I've done or mentioned, please ask.

My current rig is a side-by-side setup with a DSLR camera + lens and a ZWO camera + lens as guide scope. I had space on the end of my baseplate to mount this box.

I have intentions to upgrade to a larger refractor or so one day and will redesign this box to have a longer shallower linear shape to attach to scope rings, or from a bracket extended from under the scope.

Your rig and requirements might be different and I hope this gives you some ideas and motivation to create your own.

I set about listing some requirements:
- Dew heaters made by using PWM led/motor controller modules. The use of these modules is widely discussed. Be sure to get something that operates in the voltage you want to and can handle the power output needed. I'm using 12V 2A modules. If you have big scopes you might want something like a 3A or 4A output.
- Voltage regulator to output 12V (in case I'm lucky enough to get an ASI1600MM-C or similar).
- Voltage regulator to output 7.4V to my Canon EOS DSLR. This is using a dummy battery to run from an external DC supply.
- Voltage regulator to output 5V to power the raspberry pi.
- Be able to pass through voltage to the EQ6 mount. My EQ6-R is tolerant of 11-16V so I wont use a regulator for this (my power input will be either 12V or 13.5V volt).
- I wanted to be like one of 'the cool kids' and have a row of blade fuses like those trendy RigRunner modules.

You may not be using INDI/Ekos so may not have the need to run a 'pi on your mount, alternatively you might opt to use one of those Intel Compute Sticks if you wanted to run a Windows based platform on your mount.

I brushed up my google-fu and sourced a variety of things. As many of the store links I used have expired, I've added some links to the same products from various other sellers on ebay/aliexpress for your reference. I'll leave it up to you to find a suitable source for your components. Fortunately we live in a world of 'makers' thanks to Arduino and Raspberry Pi projects, inexpensive modules to do a variety of functions can be easily found.

- PWM Modules for Dew heaters (
https://tinyurl.com/y8dnudze) - 12V 4A buck boost regulator (https://tinyurl.com/y74hwm5w)
- Voltage regulators for 7.4V and 5V output (https://tinyurl.com/y8mz8kdu) - inputs 3-40V, outputs 1.23-30V
- Blade fuse holder (https://tinyurl.com/ydf2efbh)

Dew heater outputs use RCA terminals (like many commercial dew heater controllers) (online or your local electronics store).
12V and 7.4V DC power outputs use regular 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC jacks (online or your local electronics store). *see hindsights & lessons learned.
Not necessary, but I matched the EQ-6 power connection using the same GX12-2 socket (you'll find these on ebay)

The box I ended up using to house this is a Jiffy 197x113x63 plastic project box (https://tinyurl.com/y8nncfzk)

To mount it to the base plate, I use an inverted camera quick release plate (https://tinyurl.com/y9t23xsg) The plate is mounted to the top of my base plate using its 1/4-20 screw. The clamp section is attached to the bottom of the project box using a 1/4-20 screw.

Before buying the box I worked out a layout so I had some idea of what size box to use. I used TinkerCAD (https://www.tinkercad.com/) (free, online 3D modeling app) to come up with a design layout. You sketch this on paper if you prefer or make a model using cardboard. Once I'd created basic shapes of the modules, TinkerCAD let me drag them about in 3D and work out where I wanted dials, outputs etc [see fig 2]. Don't underestimate the space needed for cabling. The first box I bought would fit the modules but was too tight to connect everything. The box I'm using now is very snug.

I then used Inkscape (free vector drawing app, you could use any drawing app or even a pen and paper) to make a layout of where I need to cut/drill the box [see fig 3]. I printed this and taped it to the box. Drilling pilot holes for large holes made alignment accurate. A rotary tool (eg Dremel) made shaping the holes easy but a series of drilled holes shaped using a small file would do the job as well. Using a drawing app makes things super easy when you later want to design your labels as you already will have a layout of where the holes are on your computer!

To mount the modules I screwed them onto threaded nylon stand offs, applied epoxy glue to the ends of the stand offs and placed the modules in position. Once the glue had cured I unscrewed the modules and voila - custom mount points for my modules. The 12V regulator only had one screw hole so I glued a standoff under it for support.

Prior to assembly I designed some labels for it. I used Inkscape but use whatever you're comfortable with [fig 4]. I laid out my labels on a A4 layout and had them printed at a copy shop with a colour laser printer onto glossy self adhesive paper. It looks durable enough but its still paper based and may need a clear coat to make them durable. Time will tell.

With holes cut and everything test fitted, I applied the labels and began assembly.
Fig 5 - the nylon mounts glued to the base of the box. The lead is from 5V 30mm x 30mm cooling fan.
Fig 6 - label on the rear (operator) side of the box.
Fig 7 - label on the forward side of the box, heater outputs in close proximity the fronts of the lens/scope.
Fig 8 - label on the side of the box - I'd already fitted the fuse holder, switch and dials before thinking of taking a photo. Eagle eyes will see I've used 10A fuses instead of 5A as I didn't have and 5A handy at the time.
Fig 9 - inside of the side cover showing the blade terminals of the fuse panel and the dials that connect to the PWM modules.
Fig 10 - the modules used. Anti-clockwise from top left. Raspberry pi, 12V regulator, regulator for 7.4V, regulator for 5V, 4x PWM modules.
Fig 11 - a bus terminal block used as a negative DC bus. All negative leads connect into this.
Fig 12 - assembly underway. High current DC input lead, 12V module and 7.4V module fitted. RCA terminals on right with leads unattached.
Fig 13 - all modules except the pi are fitted. The high current side of the fuse panel has been interconnected.
Fig 14 - everything connected. See Fig 1 for finished item.
Fig 15 - mounted on the baseplate
Fig 16 - Cable mess begone! There are three leads bound together that connect the box to the mount - power, eqmod cable and ST4 guide cable.

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