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Old 16-07-2016, 09:41 AM
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wasyoungonce (Brendan)
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wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,336
Hi luka

I would have though that the the electronic humidity sensors are too big to fit in the case, near the sensor area?

I ran a cooled 450D, al la Gary Honis style (camera in a TEC coolbox) and it worked well, took lots of time to cool down, but would cool to below 0º C. I kept the sensor free of moisture by wrapping a dew heater on the camera/drawtube nosepiece. I used to find ice in the case area after use. Mostly the electronics doesn't ice up as they are slightly warm from passing electrons.

We can conformal seal the PCBs to protect them but I guess no matter what we do, sealing the case is a priority. Gary has some ideas on this, like "FADDYs" camera build. I see the cover filter as the most difficult area to seal, "sealing the UV/IR filter". We absolutely need to backfill the case with an inert gas, probably Argon. I guess we should pressure check them first. This is probably best with the sensor out as we don't want to damage it. I don't know what pressure differential the sensor coverglass can be subjected to.

I looked at the RS silica Gel Desiccators and my guess we need the small 10gram version, mainly due to the mounting hole size (17mm Ø). I saw some IP67/IP68 sealed "D" connectors, like this. I'll do a search for more or cheaper units but these look as good as we can get to seal the housing electrical connector. Which means we might need a small breakout box (like "FADDs") on the back of the camera to convert this "D" sub out to power, USB etc.

Can I ask where you got the CXD1267?

I'll get back on connectors and do some sealing case/UVIR filter research.
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