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I presume you are going unguided? Which is great as in my view it is best to determine the mount behaviour. I find my mount likes the balance biased somewhat and not consistent with a perfect balance. Concentrate on RA get that as good as possible and perhaps live with dec problems. Do you have a focuser mask? How are you finding CSP?
I am sincere that your image is something to be happy with as a first attempt..even for later in the game really.
I started using short exposures because I could not get the mount to perform somewhat as a compromise but now U am cinvinced one can get better results with short exposures...you are able to drop subs with little remorse...I have stacked huge numbers of subs and I suggest that you limit the number only with reference to what you computer can manage..if it will do 500 and it takes all night to stack that is ok.
My Lagoon was a build up of many subs over various nights with only the best making it but in the end I think I stacked around 300 (maybe more)...my first image was rather ordinary but the last one U was very happy with and frankly U doubr if I could improve upon that last one...that was with the eight and the nikon.
I suggest the following regularly but I doubt if any take my suggestion seriously but I use a long baffled dew shield to minimise light. I thought of the idea and implemented it before I found Hubble engage in a similar practice. If you look you will see that they extend baffling well past the secondary for what U believe are obvious reasons. The idea is to exclude star light (or street lights☺) from hitting the lens or enterinf the tube..we dont see it but it is there and the sensor picks it up. Mine is about two feet on the 80 mm. I cant provide a photo but it is a sumple cardboard tube with baffles...draw a duagran and mark what light can reach the lens but with and without if you want motivation☺.
Alex
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