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To rip off oxide, you want flux, either added from an external source, e.g. a flux syringe, or by cleaning off the old solder and adding fresh with flux in its core, just remelting old oxidised solder doesn't tend to last too well,
This stuff makes up about half my job at work, stupid designers not using through hole securing methods for there user exposed sockets,
The process would be:
Remove the socket,
Add fresh solder to the pads, (this makes a eutectic mixture, low melting point but pretty crappy properties, but it makes it easier to clean off)
Clean off all the pads carefully with desolder braid,
Add solder to 1 of the large sheild pads
position the socket, heat that sheild pad and melt into position the socket, this will act as the "tack"
Solder the opposite side of the sheild when its nice and aligned,
Add solder to the pads, thinner solder (0.71 is my go to) makes it easier, If solder bridges across 2 pads, tilt the board so away from the socket is down, heat those pads, and drag the solder down it prefers to follow heat and gravity, so there is a good chance it will follow the iron and breakt he bridge, otherwise just use the desolder braid
Also unless your selling something in bulk to europe, use leaded solder, just remeber you need to clean away any old lead-free stuff or you end up with a weird brittle mix.
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