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In my experience the TAK scope only has 'slop' at the very top of its slide range, as any sliding tube in tube arrangement would as well.. I would not think you would need to slide it that far out. There are many links and threads on this subject, and doing more research and reading might help you. I'd suggest you start with the basic tools, like the laser and get the focuser aligned first and go from there. It can become an iterative nightmare when you don't have a solid basepoint to start from, then you chase corrections back and forth. It's worth removing the internal baffle tube for alignment because it is much easier to see mirror tilt and the vane alignment when your not looking down the baffle tube. Baffle tube removal is dscussed in my RC collimation thread and in Wade's on the Cloudy Nights forum. You will need a final collimation adjustment with your camera in place, e a extra focs star test.
I am sure many of the experts on this subject are suffering from 'Collimation Fatigue' from all the help they have provided to so many, including to me. I can only add that the information is widely availabe now, it's the newbies application that often creates problems and gets them into further trouble - hence the reading suggestion.
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