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to align them straight out of the box on the simple mounting plate, an IPD of >= 8cm is required.
Possibly part of my testing problems atm are due to mis-collimation of one or both setups.
When I focus them separately, though mounted side-by-side, and then step back to look at how the scopes are aligned, they are not in the same hight.
I assume, that's due to collimation - maybe due to inadequate diligence on my part.
Until I'm sure that those issues are mostly out of the way, I can not yet say whether or not I'll keep them.
A hacksaw is needed to get the scopes closer together for 7cm IPD.
3 places: the front features a useless, fat bead all around the tube = 2.5mm.
Hacking that off in a tiny place on both tubes would gain 0.5cm.
Afterwards, another 1-2mm could be gained by hacking off the lower finder mounting screw.
And then there are the 2 inner focuser knobs of the R&P. I should think it's safe to hack them off, too.
Daylight views are crisp with 20mm EP. Haven't unpacked the other 2 nor the barlow.
The focuser and focuser housing are plastic, partially coated with look-like-metal-paint.
It's working fine and smooth using an EP.
Focussing with the Sony NEX5-N, ~480g, connected to the T2 thread in the focuser via a ~5cm long T2-Adapter:
the focuser is dancing until locked into place. For windstill env. and short exposures okay-ish.
The photos are much brighter and more contrasty than with my multi-brand 500/6.3 mirror lens. But purple fringing almost throughout the whole FOV.
Back-Focus on infinity was not possible during daylight. At the end of the barrel, I could not count the leaves on ~2km distant trees.
Might be pointing towards mis-collimation, right?
I've seen beautiful M42 photos taken with this scope so it should be possible.
As soon as this stormy low has passed, I'll try a nighttime test.
At night is where my 500/6.3 lens shines for some reason. Stars are pinpoint...
If the nighttime test on infinity with the TS is successful, I might just keep at least 1. Because.
So... miscollimation?
Should I attempt that and afterwards, hack the superfluous parts off?
Should I send them back and order the TS 60mm?
Would I like what I see through a 20x60 binoscope?
Keeping the 70s without the confidence that I can make them work for me, is too expensive a gamble...
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