Quote:
Originally Posted by John K
You can try some things - switch off the 16 Bit - no benefit in planetary; crank up the USB traffic to 80% or 90%; and also switch on High Speed.
|
Yeah I have the USB traffic to the max and also high speed ticked on. I use 16bit although it's slightly slower on recommendations from Anthony (bird) who leaves it on all the time. It has a better dynamic range and there are many instances when you need the extra signal. I lose may be 10fps on it in worst case scenario. I guess it's all a compromise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John K
The seeing in Melbourne is always variable so I find that 2,500 to 3,000 frames with the setting I have are more that sufficient to sharpen and process my images. But others might find this different. Experiment and find the optimal for your set up. But more frames = better results in my mind.
|
I agree. The more the better. The stack difference between 4000 and 10000 definitely starts showing during processing and how much details you can get out and sharpen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulloch
As John says, your frame rates are very low. In addition to what he mentioned, reduce your ROI as much as possible during capture and use high gain levels.
|
Mate, any tighter and it will be tighter than a fish's ass. I have just enough black around the disc to keep the wobble within the FOV.
I think the 120MM USB2.0 is an old camera. Maybe down the road if I get serious about planetary I'll get one of those flea cameras. Nearly bought one from the classified years ago. I should have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulloch
With my C9.25 and ASI224MC, my normal process is to image Jupiter for 3 minutes at 150 fps (so 27000 frames) at 280 gain from which I normally use stacks of 3000, 5000 or 7500 frames (seeing dependent). For Saturn I use 5 minutes at 100 fps (so 30000 frames total) at 37 gain, and stack 5000 to 10000 frames.
|
100fps on Saturn. That's my wet dream.
Oh well, for now I'll do with what I have
