Solar eclipse imaging - what do you need to know?

[gregbradley]

With the upcoming solar eclipse coming up I'd like to be prepared for it in advance.

There was an excellent talk on this subject at the AAIC on the Gold Coast last year. I'll have to look that up.

I plan to use a DSLR. What is the best approach to imaging solar eclipses?

Greg.

[h0ughy]

i would be interested in this as well Greg

[gregbradley]

I think I have a copy of the AAIC talks Mark Bolton sent me. I'll dig it up as there was one presenter who went into in great detail and there was even software available for this sort of thing.

Types of filters. Exposure lengths. Whether a scope and a planetary camera is the better setup?

The Venus transit showed the best images were using the solar imaging setup of expensive solar filters and planetary cameras. But then totality is probably quite a widefield shot.

Perhaps 2 setups, one with planetary camera and one with DSLR for the widefield shots. It all happens so fast so you also don't want to get stuck in fiddling with the technology as it occurs either.

Greg.

[gregbradley]

Ah yes I found it.

Terry Cuttle.

Here are some links:

to the Cairns website:

http://www.cairns.com.au/article/2011/11/14/191261_lifestyle.html


To various software to control your DSLRs/SBIG cameras (2 are freeware but one is only for Macs one for PCs:


http://www.moonglowtech.com/products/EclipseOrchestrator/index.shtml

http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/Solar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html freeware

http://nicmosis.as.arizona.edu:8000/ECLIPSE_WEB/UMBRAPHILE/UMBRAPHILE.html for Macs.


I am thinking a solar filter for my AP140 and a planetary camera like Paul Haese and Peter Ward used for the Venus transit.

Plus a DSLR setup using a short focal length scope and filters and a mount.

Its a lot to travel with though.

What if you get all this stuff ready and its a cloudy day?

Cairns is tropical far north Queensland and I wonder how often it is cloudy there in November (I suspect its cloudy a lot).

Greg.

[gregbradley]

Here's a fabulous resource about the likely weather, cloud cover for the whole region and recommendations.

As its an early morning eclipse it means less likelihood of cumulus type cloud having formed.

60% chance of a clear day in Cairns.

So along the beach may be the go.

http://home.cc.umanitoba.ca/~jander/tot2012/tse12intro.htm

Greg.

[DavidTrap]

Greg,

I've been corresponding with the author of Solar Eclipse Maestro. I looked into this one specifically as it's written for Mac, and mine will run for >4hrs on battery, whereas my PC only lasts 2hrs - so not long enough for the full eclipse sequence without external power.

It also appears to play well with Nikon - I believe the author is a Nikon user. I did some beta testing for the author to get my D800 working properly. There are a couple of limitations:

It will take a full frame shot every two seconds, as it writes to the card before firing another shot. (I experienced similar problems when trailing eclipse orchestrator)


It will take up to 20 shots at 4fps, but you can't vary the exposure settings during this sequence. I was thinking about using this for the diamond ring, but the camera then locks up for 30secs while it clears the buffer.

You can also switch to DX mode which reduces the time between exposures to 1sec. This might be a better option for the diamond ring, as you could bracket exposures during the sequence.

It also has works with Live View, which may be useful for focusing - yet to try this out.

The scripting for both programs is almost identical, so comparison of your script with another from someone who has done this before is easy.

DT

[AstroTourist]

Personally I have used Eclipse Orchestrator (Moonglow tech) at the last three total solar eclipses with great success.
You really can set it up and let it do its own thing through the full eclipse sequence including full partials.
I have an ASUS netbook running XP with a 10 hour battery life (key reason why I chose it), which gives plenty of time to do a test run before and then the full eclipse.
But having said that I have heard very good reports about Eclipse Maestro. Xavier is a guy who really is dedicated to getting things to perform to their best, and he is continually updating it.
Umbraphile was the first and for a while the only available program but it doesn't get updated as often.

When I am flying to an eclipse my typical setup is DSLR coupled to my 76mm f6.3 Televue either at 480mm for full corona or with a 2x at 960mm for closer in on a lightweight tracking mount. I usually have a second camera for widefield. But as I will be driving to this one, I will be taking all the gear I can stuff into the car.

Rgds,
Terry

[RobF]

Thanks Terry.
Awesome presentation at the AIC, and appreciate you again filling our heads with useful info. :)

[AstroTourist]

Glad you liked the pres, Rob.
Happy to elaborate on anything anyone has questions on.
Terry

[DavidTrap]

Terry,

Xavier has been great to deal with, and will be in Trinity Beach for the eclipse. I hope to catch up with him in November.

Would it be possible for you to post a sample script, to give an example for newbies of what to capture during an eclipse??

DT

[AstroTourist]

David,
I expect to be doing up some scripts for the 2012 eclipse in the next month or two. And happy to share them at that time. Please feel free to prompt me if I havent done that.
In the meantime, there are some samples that come with Eclipse Orchestrator. And the wizzard that comes with Eclipse Orchestrator is an excellent starting point.
Also, I am very happy to do a workshop or help anyone at Qld Astrofest for anyone who will be there.
We also have accommodation at Trinity Beach for the eclipse and I certainly expect to be catching up with Xavier (and others) then.
Sounds like the Trinity Beach - Palm Cove area will be an IIS focal point.
Rgds,
Terry

[EclipseMaestro]

Hi Terry,

I'll be staying in Trinity Beach from Nov. 10 to 16. I am renting a couple of apartments among the one we visited together.



You certainly have to!



It is worth to mention that the software isn't only meant to control DSLRs and SBIG CCD cameras.
It has much more to offer and many of its other features are unique. Here is an example:
Baily's beads simulation (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/TSE_20121113_pg02_Baily_Beads_Simul ation.html)

BTW, those interested in getting the best shots of the solar corona should get one of the new SBIG CCD cameras, the Ethernet type ones having a readout of about 1 second. The results that can be obtained will be much better than with any DSLR on the market.



Correct.
Unfortunately I will just mention that I haven't yet had direct access to the latest Nikon cameras: D4, D800 and D3200.
The fact that you had a D800 was great as it allowed to add support for that camera.



The limitation isn't only due to the fact that the 80MB file has to be written to the memory card. The write speed is indeed an important factor and one has to use the fastest card available and supported by the camera. However the combination between the Expeed 3 engine and the firmware of the camera appears to be a bit "slow" at processing the massive amount of data. Nikon has clearly some work to do on optimizing the firmware and/or handling the multitasking when communicating with a remote host.
I have to say that most digital cameras often need to have a better and more optimized firmware to really meet our needs during total solar eclipses. The best camera in that regard is the Canon 7D.
In terms of speed the D4 is clearly better than the D800, but the D800 will offer much higher resolution. In other words it all depends on what you want to do, but I'm convinced that with some beforehand rehearsal a good compromise can be found.

You should be able to change the exposure during the burst of 20 shots. The only thing is that you don't know exactly when the camera is going to execute the change. The fact is it isn't really a problem at C2 and C3 when shooting the Baily's beads.
IMO switching to DX at those two instants, and then back to FX, is likely the way to go.



Live view is a great feature and movie recording on the camera will also be controlled by SEM.


Please find some pictures from the May 20 annular
ASE 2012 in Arizona (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/ASE_20120520_pg02.html)
and June 5 Venus transit
ToV 2012 on the Mauna Loa in Hawaii (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/transits/ToV_2012_Photos.html)

Xavier

[Paul Haese]

Greg, I have a rather extensive plan in mind with a combination of DSLR white light images and a Ha with DMK images. Might I suggest for this time you either use a DSLR or point and shoot and just enjoy the experience of the eclipse. This is will be my third eclipse and it has taken me some time to organise all the ideas together. As you can appreciate one does not get a lot of chances to practice imaging eclipses. However for just simple techniques use a bracketting of 5 or 7 stops during totality. Processing via masking from there.

[dannat]

there was an article in Sky & Telescope i read at the ASV library - think it may have been the April issue - there was an article about a home made tracker - other pints the author made were

#tracking will avoid rotation
#he recomedned exp bracketing eg 1/30 - so you get either side of this - depends on camera how many it will do (author used a D700)
#he recommended continuous shooting, so you can just hold the button down or remote & let it fire away at will
#the author used a TV scope as lens , either a 76 or 85 i can't remember
#he was careful to recommend to guard against vibration, either form the scope or whatever else is around - he said it was a big threat to great img's

[bojan]

Hi all,
I plan to take my MTO-1100A (for prominences and chromosphere details) mounted on LXD75 mount (just ordered) and Canon 300mm+400D to be used for corona photos.
Anyone could suggest some rule of thumb exposure times ? (I know I can determine this in situ, but some guide values would be also helpful).

[EclipseMaestro]

Solar Eclipse Exposure (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/SolarEclipseExposure.html)

[bojan]

:thumbsup::thanx:

[RobF]

A presentation at Qld Astrofest on scripting for the eclipse would be very well attended I suspect? :prey:

[AstroTourist]

I have suggested to the astrofest committee that I do such a presentation/workshop.
Regards,
Terry

[Peter Ward]

I've been to 4 total solar's.

While I have hauled a good deal of gear on some, my most successful was Lybia using nothing more than DSLR, Baader film (for partial-phases) Manfrotto triopd and a William Optics 80mm refractor.

First you need to decide what you want to record.

Extended corona?
High-res inner corona?
Partial phases?

It will be hard to run multiple focal lengths...IMHO you'll be more like to bugger that up rather than do one FL very well. Longer focal lengths usually mean more gear....ie tracking head, counterweights, batteries, etc.

Same with filters.... partial phases in H-alpha might be nice, but again, it's hard to switch to un-filtered multi-second long exposures without losing focus, framing or both.

I'm still to decide what scope or lens to pack, but I am gravitating to my trusty Manfrotto tripod, 501 head, and Losmandy Starlapse as a core system.

If you are flying to Cairns most airlines charge excess baggage after 23kg
(read: about two G-11 counterweights)

Camera will be my Canon 5dMkIII for sure...pity they weren't available in 2006!

Lastly, set-up and test everything before you go....the moon won't wait
for you to sort out any last minute technical hitches :thumbsup:

[DavidTrap]

From what I've read on eclipse photography, I believe you're advice is sound Peter - it's certainly the track I'll be following.

DT

[AstroTourist]

Peter's advice is spot on.
If this is your first eclipse then keep it simple and most importantly don't be so focussed on the photography that you miss the awsome spectacle.
Having been to and imaged 11 totals and 5 annulars I have lots of personal stories of how to stuff it up.
And trying to do too much is very close to the top of that list.
If you plan on doing anything other than Point n shoot, then preparation and practice are essential.
Terry

[gregbradley]

[QUOTE=Peter Ward;868466]I've been to 4 total solar's.

While I have hauled a good deal of gear on some, my most successful was Lybia using nothing more than DSLR, Baader film (for partial-phases) Manfrotto triopd and a William Optics 80mm refractor.



Good advice Peter.

I have a Manfrotto tripod but I found with the Venus transit I spent a bit of time mucking around getting the sun framed because I was using a ballhead and a TEC110 which whilst not a heavy scope was heavy enough. I think a light weiht tracker like that would make life a lot easier.

Greg.

[seeker372011]

11 totals and 5 annuals.

Do you like eclipses then?
:);)

[AstroTourist]

Beware - eclipses are highly addictive.

But also a fantastic natural display, the challenge of being in the right place at the right time and successfully dealing with the weather, an excuse to see a new place, and best of all a great imaging challenge.
Terry

[DavidTrap]

I just look at all the far off and wonderful places that an eclipse gives you the justification to visit! I had an excuse to visit a Pacific Island on business recently - would never have gone their as a tourist, and am unlikely to go back, but it was somewhere "different"!

DT

[ChrisM]

Greg, I recall at NACAA that Terry said that the tide will be coming in, resulting in little beach left to use. You wouldn't want to get caught up in the retreat. Also, don't forget about the thousands of others who will be looking for that same little bit of beach. And another thing - don't expect to be able to relocate any time until well after the eclipse is finished!

And one final thing - apparently there is some major sporting event like a triathalon or similar, that will start during the eclipse!

I'm still considering a strategy to get on top of all this...
Chris

[AstroTourist]

The Eclipse marathon starts from the southern end of Port Douglas beach and third contact is the starting signal. So it will probably be quite crowded in that area. But there are plenty of other beaches.

The beach certainly has an attraction but there are reasons for looking at alternatives. A well chosen beach should provide a good a good view towards the east, an attractive scene of the Sun rising out over the ocean, the beach atmosphere, palm trees etc.
But the tide will be coming in, it will be high tide round about 9 am and it will be one of the highest tides of the year. So at total eclipse time the tide will be coming in quite quickly and all those other people on the beach will be edging back towards your carefully chosen higher up spot.
Add to that the fact that most beaches are tree lined greatly restricting the view around and behind you. So it will be harder to find a spot to appreciate the all round sunset effect and quite difficult if not impossible to get an appreciation of the approaching shadow.
There is the balance of weather prospects on the coast or inland.
No place is perfect and you usually have to accept some compromise. Depends on what you are looking for out of the eclipse.
Terry

[DavidTrap]

I can see the potential for fisticuffs, when the retreating observers back into those who setup further up the beach!

DT

[bojan]

About exposure times again...
I intend to use MTO-1100A on LXD75 (http://www.zvjezdarnica.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=760 2.0;attach=17999;image), with Canon 60D in live view mode and I am wandering, if it's worth to risk and set it to AV mode.. so exposure time is supposed to be determined automatically.
This setting works pretty well on my 400d with manual lenses (and no live view of course), with -2 correction for terrestrial photos (if I remember correctly).
Any thoughts/experiences about it?

[gregbradley]

Not sure about the 60D but I know some use a D800 set to auto ISO, minimum shutter speed and AV. Apparently that works well.
In that case the shutter speed and ISO varies to suit the metered scene.

I imagine with an eclipse you will want your camera able to take in the widish range of light levels from bright to twilight type conditions and back again without requiring fiddling with settings with a few minute window of opportunity.

I'd experiment with settings outside on a bright day then take it inside and make it a bit dim and see if it still handles that without changing anything.

Greg.

[bojan]

Hmm..
Thanks Greg for ideas..
I am now thinking about making a mask out of black paper with strong back light, to simulate the scene (chromosphere) with prominences and test.
Hopefully 14 bit ADC of 60D may be able to handle the actual dynamic range...

[EclipseMaestro]

That can work well when shooting wide angle during totality. However do bracket by up to two stops.



With the exception of a wide angle view of the landscape and sky, automatic exposures might not produce good results.
When the eclipse is partial it should work well. When zooming in on the Sun make sure the camera is in spot metering mode.

However during totality, particularly when zooming in on the solar corona, manual settings are far superior to automatic, and using software (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/Solar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html) to automate the whole process is by far the best method to capture all the dynamic range. Don't forget that no single exposure can capture its full dynamic range.
The best strategy is to choose one aperture and bracket the exposures over a range of shutter speeds (i.e. 1/1000s to 4s). That way a composite image will be able to reveal the structure of the subtle corona.
Usually what you do is, start with a very short exposure time, the one that was used for the partial phase and/or Baily's beads, and then increase the exposure time with every exposure up to about 4 to 8 seconds, this will capture Earthshine on the Moon as well, before decreasing the exposure time down to the one used for the Baily's beads and/or partial phase.
During the about two minutes we'll have next November two complete sets can be captured.

You can use this exposure guide (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/SolarEclipseExposure.html) to have a better idea of the exposure times. And don't forget to always bracket the exposures.

Last don't forget to look at the event naked eye as no picture will do justice to the sheer beauty of a total solar eclipse...

For those attending the QLD Astrofest, I will be there from Aug. 16 to 19th and will participate with Terry to a talk addressing this topic and others on Friday Aug. 17th.

[EclipseMaestro]

Not enough for the dynamic range of the solar corona. There is no camera that can do it with a single exposure.

[bojan]

This is for Mac :(.. anything in existence for us w'dowers ;)?

[EclipseMaestro]

For Windows to control a Nikon or Canon DSLR you can use
Eclipse Orchestrator
or SETnC (http://robertnufer.ch/06_computing/setnc/SETnC_page.htm), Canon only

For Mac, Solar Eclipse Maestro (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/Solar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html), Lunar Eclipse Maestro (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/lunar_eclipses/Lunar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html) and Mercury Venus Transit Maestro (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/transits/Mercury_Venus_Transit_Maestro_Photo graphy_Software.html) will control Nikon and Canon DSLRs, SBIG CCD cameras with their filter wheels and bring a lot more features as well that you won't find anywhere else...

[bojan]

Hi Xavier,
Thank you for links.
SETnC seems to operate my 400D, but there are some difficulties with 60D.
So I'll control it manually (with 300mm lens, for wider corona),

400D will go on MTO-1100A, and will be controlled by SETnC

[EclipseMaestro]

Robert will most likely release an update supporting the 60D before next November.
You can always send him an e-mail.

[bojan]

I just asked him and he said he won't.. he actually stopped work on SETnC (for now, I hope).

[bojan]

Well, he did it: my 60D now works with SETnC (v2.11, uploaded this morning on his website (http://robertnufer.ch/06_computing/setnc/SETnC_page.htm)) :thumbsup:

[AstralTraveller]

Camera control is the one bit of my eclipse photography plan is causing me a headache. I'm resisting buying a laptop because I honestly have no need of one, apart for a certain 3 minutes in November. My only portable computer is an iPad 1 and it appears there is nothing suitable that will run on it. Is there a solution that will please the department of finance?

[bojan]

I was considering a simple programmable timer from ebay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Timer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Cord-Canon-EOS-60D-600D-1100D-1000D-550D-450D-/250951045129?pt=AU_Cameras_Photogra phic_Accessories&hash=item3a6dd91009) and manual settings of exposure time during eclipse.
I may still take that option, as carrying laptop around is risky..

[EclipseMaestro]

I did ask him to do so by making a minor modification to help support the 60D. Please report to him any problem you may have with your 60D.

Also please check to see if your 400D still works, as it may not. If that is the case then you need to use the old version for the 400D and the new one for the 60D.

Cameras that should work (older cameras may not):
EOS-1D Mark III
EOS 40D
EOS-1Ds Mark III
EOS DIGITAL REBEL Xsi/450D/ Kiss X2
EOS DIGITAL REBEL XS/ 1000D/ KISS F
EOS 50D
EOS 5D Mark II
EOS Kiss X3/EOS REBEL T1i /EOS 500D
EOS 7D
EOS-1D Mark IV
EOS Kiss X4/EOS REBEL T2i /EOS 550D
EOS 60D
EOS Kiss X5/EOS REBEL T3i /EOS 600D
EOS Kiss X50/EOS REBEL T3 /EOS 1100D
EOS 5D Mark III
EOS 1D X

[bojan]

Well, thank you both for your help, you guys are great ! :-)
I will be evaluating the software and let you know the results - so far there is only one small issue, the moment I connect 60D with computer via USB it goes from liveview into default state - I hoped it would stay in liveview so mirror would be in up position and not introducing vibrations..
The scripting is so easy with STEPnC :thumbsup:
In case 400D is not working with new software version, I still have the old one (2.8.11).

But, 400D still works OK, as far as I can see. (except when mirror lock-up is enabled.. but this was not working before anyway, so no worries)

[EclipseMaestro]

To my knowledge there is no way to make that work as the camera's firmware is in charge there, unless you modify the firmware... But it can be done once the camera is already connected.

[bojan]

Or, if the new button is added on camera control window - to activate liveview :D

[bojan]

Hi guys,
After email from Robert, where he mentioned "en passant" that:
".. If all the modes are read from the camera, I press the Live view button on the camera and the mirror flips up. I can then continue with changing some values on the camera or in the SETnC camera form.." then I decided to test my 60D again.

And it worked the way as described in his email.

Otherwise, if there is just the USB cable and computer (but no application to talk to camera), 60D doesn't want to go into liveview mode (on LCD screen there is "busy" text while I hold the appropriate button, and that's it... actually, some other functions are also crippled this way).

So, everything works as it should :-)

[Analog6]

This all sounds amazingly complicated. I was just going to take my 2 cameras (1DsMkII & 40D) and lenses (canon 17-40 L & Sigma 150-500) and do what i did in WA in 1999, shoot an image at set times (manually & bracketing) getting closer together as totality approaches. I've downloaded SEM but it looked so tricky I gave up. Guess some study is needed.

[EclipseMaestro]

So tricky? Yet so powerful...

For example for scripting the partial phases this is all you need:
FOR,(VAR),0,1,99
TAKEPIC,MAGPRE (VAR) ,+,00:00.0,40D,1/500,8.0,100,2.0,RAW,None,Y,Partial
TAKEPIC,MAGPOST (VAR),+,00:00.0,40D,1/500,8.0,100,2.0,RAW,None,Y,Partial
ENDFOR
And there is a script wizard to guide you.

Let me know if you need any help and don't forget I'll be attending the QLD Astrofest from the 16th to 19th and will participate with Terry to a talk addressing this topic and others on Friday Aug. 17th.

[h0ughy]

brilliant - see you there:thumbsup:

[AstroTourist]

I would like to add that eclipse photography is as simple or as intense as what you want it to be.
Of course it is practicable to manually do a set of bracketted exposures. After all that is what we were doing in all the years before DSLRs & computer control.
Computer control certainly is not necessary. But it is quite easy to operate and it gives a huge amount of flexability to produce exactly what you want from your eclipse photography. A huge bonus is that it can do this autonomously so you can sit back and enjoy the marvellous spectacle and still have your images.
Anyone attending astrofest will have two opportunities to get info on this.
I will be giving a presentation on the first Sunday (2PM) on the eclipse and eclipse photography and then Xavier and I will do a joint presentation on the second Friday at 1PM.
Look forward to seeing you there.
Terry

[bojan]

Re GPS receivers.. anyone planning to use it (and which one) for automatic local details acquisition ?

This is going to be my first (and most probably the last) Total Eclipse.. and I don't want to be in position to blame myself for a disaster (except bad weather.. which is not under my control anyway of course...)

[EclipseMaestro]

Any unit will do. You can even use the ones that you can now find in many cell phones.

I personally use a Garmin GPSMap 60CSx (used also when hiking) and a puck-like Garmin GPS 18 USB (very useful when intercepting an eclipse from a ship or an aircraft as SEM recomputes in real-time the local circumstances).

The first one has a display, while the second doesn't. Both can be connected using a USB cable to automatically update the coordinates in the eclipse photography software.

[gregbradley]

I take it the eclipse will be visible from Sydney but not totality?

Greg.

[EclipseMaestro]

Correct. See this interactive map (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/TSE_2012_GoogleMapFull.html?Lat=-33.865&Lng=151.207&LC=1) for more details.

[gregbradley]

Thanks very much for that.

Greg.

[bojan]

Anyone tried to use both SETnC and EclipseOrchestratorFree on the same machine?
I would like to control two cameras (from one lap), but $100 for EO Pro is a bit too much for my taste at the moment.

[shahgazer]

Does the latest version allows bracketing with Canon cameras? The web stated that the Pro version supports Nikon (for bracketing).

Thanks.

[h0ughy]

havent tried it but there may be a conflict where both programmes see the cameras and even though you have selected different cameras in each they may tie up the resources of the other?

[gregbradley]

Whats the advantage of bracketing?

Latest 5D3 and D600/D800 have in camera HDR but its only jpeg with Nikon (not sure with Canon it may do RAW).

Greg.

[bojan]

That's exactly what I am afraid of - but as I mentioned earlier, I can't try it now because I have only one of them here with me..
Anyway, if there is a problem/conflict, I will control one of them (with bracketing enabled) with external timer, and I will try to manually change the exposures [when bracket sequence (of 3 exposures) is over].

[Danack]

That's a great resource, but what does this mean?

[SteveInNZ]

With extinction means making allowance for the atmosphere. If you adjust the altitude of the Sun, you'll see the suggested shutter speed change accordingly.

[Danack]

Ah thanks, that makes sense.

For the record, I'm going to go up with just my 100-400mm lens and try to get shots like these:

http://www.petapixel.com/2012/05/30/the-making-of-an-epic-solar-eclipse-photo/

http://mvas.org/node/3417

Or if there is a bird or two sitting in a tree in front of the eclipse, that would also be good.

[philiphart]

Finally doing some testing for the eclipse and having a few issues with Eclipse Orchestrator. Anybody got advice for the following questions? I'm using a 5DMKII.

1) I have a Shoestring DPUSB adapter, so as I understand it for the "Minimum spacing between exposures" I should be able to use much less than 1 second? What do others use for this setting? I'm finding that even with spacing around two seconds, the camera settings often do not match what they are supposed to be during a sequence, which suggests that the setting of the exposure via USB and the firing of the shutter via Shoestring DPUSB are still tripping over each other a lot?

2) Recycle Time in the hardware setup is just used when visualising the sequence.. but does not actually affect the program etc right? That seems consistent with the short entry in the Help contents.

3) I've often found that the log stops getting updated, ie when i go back and review it after a sequence, it stopped partway through. For awhile it seems the log had completely frozen and was not showing even program startup etc after several attempts. Then finally it kicked back into life again.. anybody else experience that?

Appreciate any thoughts..

Would love to see somebody's else's program and particularly how many shots for diamond ring/bailey's beads/prominences you manage to fit into that short period of time.

cheers
Phil

[h0ughy]

ok from the testing i have done to date you only shoot RAWS, you have nothing on the memory card to start with ie formatted fresh, make sure you have the fastest possible memorycard you can afford to get, ie 95mbpersec or better, do not save to computer only to memory card, 1 per second is probably about it, but you can test it to see if it will do quicker. with SEM running a 1 sec shot scenario i can get quite a lot of shots off. but it will work in a sort of burst mode for the baileys beads. go to Xaviers website for some hints

i will be honest i found Eclipse Orchestrator to be a pain to get to work (i bought the pro version a few years back) , especially with newer canon cameras. the free programme setnc seems to work with the newer 650D where it wont with the EO, or SEM.

also use the usb connection, i only use the dsusb for the 30d but i am running the 650D 600D and 60D off usb only

[philiphart]

thanks houghy. some good ideas there and using USB alone worked a bit smoother and has helped me trouble shoot what's going on with the shoestring adapter. i'd like to get it working though as having mirror lockup will help (but am going to do some testing to verify exactly how much). reducing the shutter press time to 50ms seems to have helped as well (fred and i had to experiment with that on his timelapse controller as well).

some results below.. bizarrely in each case it's the switch between the longer 1"-2"-4" exposures that start to break down first, rather than the gaps between the faster exposures.


with just USB control, the sequences work fine with a spacing of 1.0 secs, and start to break down at anything less than that.
using the shoestring DSUSB without mirror lockup, i get a similar result but actually need slightly longer than 1" for a reliable sequence.
using the shoestring DSUSB and mirror lockup, i need closer to 2" exposure spacing to get a reliable result.

there are still two advantages to using the shoestring adapter though.. i get mirror lockup (of variable duration as needed) and when i'm running consecutive exposures of the same settings (eg 1/3000 sec for bailey's beads) i can run a few of those together with <1 sec spacing, which i can't do via USB alone.

so i'm leaning towards still using the shoestring adapter but it will take some hand coding of the scripts to optimise the result.

cheers
phil

[colinmlegg]

Phil, you could also try usb + serial remote. If you don't have a serial adaptor I can send you one...have a couple of spares. It'll take about 2 or so seconds to update the shutter via usb. Camera is triggered via remote, so time between shots is 1s or a bit less for constant shutter + fast card.

Edit: Just to clarify: You can update the shutter setting (or ISO) via USB and fire the shutter via the serial remote. Fred B made this change for my project... not sure if it's documented though. You can also use bulb below 1/30 s for faster turn around.

[philiphart]

thanks colin. how much different is a 'serial adapter' to the shoestring DSUSB adapter? they seem like pretty much the same thing to me.. each just triggering the shutter via remote release socket while exposure settings are set via normal USB (which DSUSB does not replace). the shoestring just has the USB-to-Serial bit built in?

i do have an old serial shutter release somewhere that i could try but functionally they seem almost identical?

Phil

[colinmlegg]

Maybe the only difference is that you can separate the 2 operations in time. Not sure, haven't used the shoestring. I used a gap of 3 seconds (usb update vs trigger) for my project to be on the safe side.

[colinmlegg]

Phil, I just re-checked the docs and you're right the functionality should be the same (shoestring vs regular serial trigger).

[philiphart]

as i understand it, in the Eclipse Orchestrator script, "TAKEPIC" means set the camera to required settings and take the picture, whereas "RELEASE" just triggers the shutter (via serial/shoestring) at whatever settings the camera is currently set to.

i can't see a way in Eclipse Orchestrator to just update exposure settings via USB without taking a shot. presumably that is your own code updated by Fred B that was able to do that? (Is Fred B associated with Little Bramper, or is that custom code for your project that you are referring to)?

thanks for the help!

Phil

[colinmlegg]

Try SETEXP

eg.

SETEXP,2011/09/01,-,22:09:54.000,5d2,0.001,2.8,100,0.0 00,RAW,,N,Test

Yes, Fred B (EO author) made the mod for my project mid last year, so it should be in the latest version. I can send you my version if it doesn't work. Can't say that it'll improve your turn around time. I used a variation on the serial triggering. Rather than trigger directly, EO sent a serial command with shutter duration to a 2nd triggering device. Ultimately the same result though.

[philiphart]

you're right.. that's not documented! i've learnt a lot now :).

Phil

[geoffsims]

I wasn't aware of this either.

So is using SETEXP followed by RELEASE (with serial cable) faster than TAKEPIC using USB alone?

I have used Eclipse Orchestrator for the 3 previous TSEs, and have always had to use quite long waits between exposure changes via USB.

One technique that was recommended to me once, though I have never tried it, is to put your camera in drive mode, then use a long RELEASE command, which will take fast sequential shots as quick as the camera allow. It may be possible to combine this with in-camera autobracketing to automatically take 5 bracketed for each 1 exposure change via USB.

As has already been mentioned, it is worth using Bulb mode (& only the RELEASE) command for longer (>1/30s) exposures.

[colinmlegg]

Yeah, that's my experience as well. I went with a 3 sec gap for my project last year. Somewhere between 2 and 3 is what seems to be needed for the camera to register a change. No idea why it should take that long?

SETEXP is good in the scenario you describe using a long RELEASE + bracketing, in that you don't waste a shot. It's probably the fastest way of getting all stops from 1/4000 to 3 sec.

You can also use it to switch the camera from Manual to Bulb without turning the dial. Your dial stays on M, but the internal readout says B. (Officially not supported on 5D2, but Fred B got it working)

SETEXP,2011/09/01,-,21:41:24.000,5d2,B0.1,2.8,100,0.00 0,RAW,,N,Test

Note the B before 0.1



The bulb precision issue is one of the reasons I went for a 2nd triggering device. Between 1/30 and 1/10 sec you don't get reliable bulb times due to PC timing inaccuracies.

[colinmlegg]

One other thing. I wouldn't recommend using SETEXP and RELEASE if you have multiple connected cameras. I couldn't get it working reliably, so had to resort to 1 netbook per camera :(

[geoffsims]

Thanks for the info.

I have often used 2 cameras, but not in that fashion - however, I have always thought 1 camera per laptop would be safer! In the past I've had to leave copious amounts of room between camera switches.

Anyway - this reminds me, I had really get thinking about my TSE photography plan, with under a month to go...

[AstralTraveller]

I've got the gear together, can run sequences and am pretty organised with my coronal shots. The thing I'm hung up on is the sequence around the 2nd and 3rd contacts - what features to shoot when. I think the visualiser in EO has some advice but I can't find it documented anywhere. There are a number of coloured bands which I think represent features like Diamond Ring, Bailey Beads, Chromosphere, Prominences, Inner Corona and Outer Corona. Their span across the time axis is the time to shoot these features and the position on the vertical axis is their brightness (in Q?). Does anyone know if I am reading this right? Otherwise, when should I shoot what?

[philiphart]

Eclipse Orchestrator 3.4 has been released, which now appears to officially support the SETEXP command (and the 5D Mark III if you're lucky enough to have one). The display and selection of file types looks like it will fix an issue i have with the 5DII as well.

[philiphart]

Anybody aware of any tricks required to get the BULB mode thing working with Eclipse Orchestrator and the 5DII?

I've tried using TAKEPIC and SETEXP but my 5DII is not going into bulb mode. The exposure value on the top screen stays on whatever it was on and playback of the file shows that it was still shot in manual mode with the displayed exposure value.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Bulb mode works in v3.3.1 but not in the latest v3.4 (at least for me). I've sent a message to Fred B..

Phil

[geoffsims]

No idea but seems like there is no real need (at least for me) to run the latest version then.

[philiphart]

Geoff.. are you able to use mirror lockup with the RELEASE command in v3.1.1?

For me, mirror lockup seems to be ignored with the RELEASE command. Whenever the script gets saved by EO, any value in that field gets erased and I'm just left with an exposure time value and not much else in that row.

Phil

[geoffsims]

Not sure Phil - and I can't check right now because my camera is in Hong Kong getting repaired (great timing...).

Also I just installed the latest EO, without realising I don't think I have the installer for the old version if I want to revert back.

[philiphart]

I can easily send you the old installer if necessary. Hope the camera comes back soon. Would be interested in your report.

I haven't received any reply from Fred B so not sure there's any likelihood of the bug if it is one being fixed. i guess he's busy!

Phil

[geoffsims]

I will try and test is as soon as I get my camera back!

[h0ughy]

currently there are some exciting developments with Solar Eclispe Maestro for the macs - stay tuned. should be able to run 4 canons at the eclipse from the one computer - awesome!

[bojan]

Seems like free version simply ignores commands that are available in Pro version (ML is one of them).. this sucks a bit (IMHO).

What I also don't like, you can't develop your script without camera connected.
In my case, I left my 400D at home.. so I can't do much at the moment.
However, I have 60D with me here where I am now, but I can't use it because it's not supported.

Try SETnC.. or just DSLRTimer

[philiphart]

hi bojan.. i have the full version so that's not the issue. but doesn't seem like a huge community of EO users. No forums full of the other issues people have had along the way?

Phil

[colinmlegg]

Phil, I can try it tonight. So you want to test whether RELEASE works with mirror lockup? I've never tried it.

[philiphart]

Thanks Colin. Yes.. at even moderate focal lengths mirror lockup makes a significant difference to the sharpness of my images.. even with only 0.3-0.5 second delay. So I definitely want to use that even if it slows down the frame rate because I can't use SETEXP/RELEASE etc.

In my scripts, a value in the MUL field of a RELEASE line gets overwritten as blank after saving it again from EO, and does not get used in the script.

Phil

[colinmlegg]

I'm using an earlier beta version 3.3 Beta 4, and those fields are left blank on export as well. You can edit them in later (edit file), then reload the script and all appears to work.

I used the emergency mode for testing, and in my beta version the first script entry is ignored, so I duplicated it. Some quirks you have to workaround ;)

SETEXP,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:03.0,5D2,1/2,8.0,100,1.000,RAW,,Y,Prominences Q=10
SETEXP,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:06.0,5D2,1/2,8.0,100,1.000,RAW,,Y,Prominences Q=10
RELEASE,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:09.0,5D2, 1/4,,,1.00,,,,
RELEASE,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:11.5,5D2, 1/4,,,1.00,,,,
RELEASE,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:14.0,5D2, 1/4,,,1.00,,,,

You say you only have 0.3 - 0.5 s MLU delay. Is that a settable option for 5D2?

Do you reckon MLU is needed for 100mm FL?

[philiphart]

thanks.. i'll have to play some more with reloading the script and see if i get the mirror lockup time to be recognised.

because i'm using the Shoestring DSUSB, the mirror lock up time is controlled by the gap between the two activations of the shutter. the only automatic way to do it on camera is with 2 second timer delay, where the mirror lifts up on shutter press and then the shutter activates at the end of the 2 seconds. too slow for an eclipse though!

100mm focal length on a solid tripod probably doesn't need MUL and the blurring effect if you can see it at all would be the order of a pixel. but at >500mm the blurring effect is quite significant.

Phil

[AstralTraveller]

Hi,

I wondering whether anyone else has experience the same issue as me?

I'm running a 600D with a 400mm lens and a 400D with a 200mm lens, both controlled by EO. My sequence starts with the 600D, then does a block with the 400D and then returns to the 600D before third contact. The software is running under Win XP and works pretty well. It tends to drop the first shot after each camera change and lengthening the delay doesn't seem to help. So that's perhaps two shots out of 70 that are lost. I can live with that.

Last night I tried the same script on a friend's machine (which will be the backup) running Win 7 and had real problems. The change from the 600D to the 400D works OK but the change from the 400D back to the 600D freezes the script. When the 400D is taking shots you can see the red light on the back which indicates that it is busy writing to memory come on after each shot for 1.5-2 sec. However, after the final shot it comes on and stays on. In EO the status of the 600D is shown as 'waiting on another camera' (or similar - it's not in front of me) and remains that way. This can continue for at least several minutes (the limit of my patience). If I unplug the 400D the 600D resumes taking shots. I tried the XP box again and it still works OK. We tried the upgrade and it made no difference.

I'm thinking it might be driver related but that's about the limit of my knowledge. I'm going to file a bug report but I believe there are a few bug reports being submitted at the moment. In the meanwhile has anyone else experience this problem and have you solved it?

BTW my best solution so far is to have a voice prompt to unplug the 400D immediately after its block. :shrug:

[philiphart]

David.. I don't have your issue but when i've been playing and editing scripts using just one camera i've had issues where EO and the camera seem to lose communication. I have to force EO to close and then start again.

Have you found somewhere to submit a bug? I found an email address for Fred B but have not got any reply?

Phil

[AstralTraveller]

No, but I haven't looked either. We finished up late last night. It's just that I remember reading that a few people have written to Fred with bug reports so I imagine he has a lot deal with and there isn't much time and EO isn't his full-time job .....

[colinmlegg]

Just tried varying MLU delay in 3 shots and it worked fine. If I use 2 s delay, however, it doesn't work.

SETEXP,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:03.0,5D2-1,1/2,8.0,100,1.000,RAW,,Y,Prominences Q=10
SETEXP,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:06.0,5D2-1,1/2,8.0,100,1.000,RAW,,Y,Prominences Q=10
RELEASE,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:09.0,5D2-1,1/4,,,0.3,,,,
RELEASE,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:11.5,5D2-1,1/4,,,0.5,,,,
RELEASE,EMERGENCY,+,00:00:14.0,5D2-1,1/4,,,1.00,,,,



It'll loose comms if you have auto power off turned ON and the camera powers off. Also, sometimes it can take up to a minute to initialize a camera on start up.

I've had issues with multi-cam reliability. Fred says it's more an issue with the Canon drivers rather than his software. He even contemplated taking the option out at one point. To be safe, either go with what you know works, or use 1 laptop/netbook per camera.

[geoffsims]

David - I haven't had your issue, but did have the issue of major lag when switching between cameras. So much so that I used to fire off a dummy exposure just to wake the camera up, then pause about 5s, then start the sequence! No idea why that is the case. Possibly the situation is worsened by having the low-end DSLRs like you do (and I did in the past).

Phil - if you are desperate, you should join & post to the SEML (Solar Eclipse Mailing List). I don't recall too many posts about EO specifics in the past, but there is likely a lot more people on that group who use it than there are on IIS.

See: http://www.mreclipse.com/Special/SENLinfo.htm

[AstralTraveller]

I've seen that too but somehow (and I've forgotten exactly how) I seem to have overcome it. One thing I did was run a SETEXP about 30s before C2 so the camera is correctly set for it's first shot.

I had a 'lightbulb' moment last night and saw the bleedin' obvious :rolleyes:. If I'm taking a backup 'puter I can just run one 'puter per camera. So now I will have one script for the 400D one for the 600D and one for both should I only have one 'puter. I also found an issue with the 400D I hadn't noticed. If the shots are a bit too close together they will still fire but the settings won't change. You get a series of eg 1 sec shots instead of stepping through the sequence. The necessary spacing also depends on the preceding shot's duration. So if I take say 0.1sec a 2 sec gap is OK but if I take 2 sec then 4 sec (ie 2 for the shot and 2 to prepare for the next) isn't enough, 4.5 is needed.

If we could just put the eclipse off for a week or two I reckon I can be ready in time. :(

[h0ughy]

only need to make the filters now i have the camera functionality sorted out dont mind the mess - its an organised mess - see here and turn up the volume :rofl: http://youtu.be/IwvBhNuTTFc

the MAC will be controlling 4 canon cameras - 650D 60D 600D and a 30D lenses will be a 250mm lens, 400mm L lens , 200mm L lens and a 10mm fisheye lens - wont bother with a solar filter for the fisheye;)

I am just so stoked I have got this working. Xavier has just finished a beta before the eclipse and this seemed an impossible goal – not now. Be using a 400mm L lens, 250mm standard lens, 200mm L lens and a 10mm fisheye, starlapse (2 cameras, 60D and 600D with the 400 and the 200) the polarie (fisheye and 30D) and astrotrac (650D with 250mm)…..

[Paul Haese]

David not to put this down, but that is quite funny to watch.

You guys in my opinion are over complicating all of this. Simple is best in my experience. Things often do not allow for complicated at an eclipse.

Both totals I have been to have been cloud affected, this one will be the same in all likelyhood. In that case you need to use different exposure settings. High cloud in particular will wipe out all this automated stuff. Images will be way under exposed. Being able to shoot to compensate for any cloud will be the best strategy. I wish you luck but I am going with a remote, my mount, 300mm f2.8 with 2xTEC, Lunt 80, PGR camera and laptop. All battery operated. The Lunt will be for 5 minute exposures leading up to totality and the white light will only be for the period of totality.

Time will tell I suppose. ;)

[h0ughy]

already got that covered paul - have a bulb if things go wrong big time, but more importantly the settings vary in the original script, however i have a backup script for longer exposures. the original script already accounted for extinction. yeah i was going to take the lunt originally but it was pretty heavy and i saw you and a few others were taking theirs - so i left that out and decided t odo the multiple camera option. if nothing else it sounds great while sitting there admiring the view;)

[Poita]

Don't forget to charge those batteries!

I'm taking a film camera to the school as well, just in case everything else goes to pot.

[gregbradley]

I agree Paul. I often even shoot manual for terrestial with my D800E. There is no substitute for being completely in touch with your gear and knowing rapidly almost without thinking what to change on your camera to get a good exposure. If you have to think or fiddle with it you are at risk of not getting that brief moment recorded.

I read yesterday El Nino is now gone and its the fastest switch in recorded history so now a normal wet season is expected rather than a dry one. That was referring to the Northern Territory but I imagine it affects Aussie east coast as well. Not good news for the eclipse.

Greg.

[Moon]

I have the same question about the color bands. I'm finding my exposures aren't inside them. Does this mean I've got my exposures wrong or some misconfiguration somewhere?
James

[philiphart]

I'm trying to understand the same thing, and found the relevant text on the EO page:

http://www.moonglowtech.com/products/EclipseOrchestrator/GettingStarted.shtml

The colored boxes in the graph represent suggested exposure times and settings for various phenomena. A good script will bracket in such a way as to fill out the boxes, to cover differences in camera sensitivity, atmospheric transparency, etc. The color code is:
Orange = Partial phases
Green = Diamond Ring
Yellow = Baily's Beads
Pink = Chromosphere
Red = Prominences
Gray = Corona
Violet = Earthshine (the face of the Moon)

[philiphart]

If you are forced to use a long gap between exposures then your sequences will get forced away from the ideal timing. Try generating a script with only a very short gap (eg 0.5 sec) and seeing where it places the exposures then, just as a reference..

This site (previously on this thread) is also very useful for confirming exposure times for various features (but not the timing relative to contacts):
http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/SolarEclipseExposure.html

Phil

[philiphart]

For anybody interested, I have attached a copy of my current Eclipse Orchestrator script and the resulting exposure sequence. 85 exposures in about 2min 35secs but working ok so far. I still can't get the RELEASE command to work reliably so am sticking to TAKEPIC which effectively functions the same way for me when the gap between shots is short (since it fires via the serial cable whatever state the camera is in).

Interested to hear any comments/questions and also to see scripts from experienced others! ;)

I can certainly support what Paul and Greg have said, and knowing your gear and keeping it simple is advice I give often as well. But I guess with an eclipse, you have to balance several factors and each individual has to make their own choice about that.

Automated scripting is not for beginners, but if you want to image at multiple focal lengths I don't really see any alternative. It also provides a degree of optimisation of exposures at each eclipse stage that is very difficult otherwise, particularly with fine-tuning of mirror-lockup delays.

The automated approach is an all-or-nothing bet, but I plan to ignore the camera during totality and if the computer control is a wipe out then I won't have lost out on the visual experience. Of course, I'm very painfully aware that all this preparation and practice could be for nothing more than a beautiful image of some nice puffy cumulus clouds! :prey:

Phil

[Moon]

Thanks Phil - you've given me an excellent idea!

[Moon]

I just tried a new approach that seems to work ok. Here is a sample test script:

TAKEPIC,EMERGENCY,-,00:00:00.0,5DMKII,1/1000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 1000
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 1000
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:02.5,5DMKII,1/500,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 500
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 500
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:03.0,5DMKII,1/250,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 250
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 250
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:03.0,5DMKII,1/125,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 125
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 125

In 15 seconds it takes 6x1000, 6x500, 6x250, 6x125, total 24 images.
The camera is set to continuous shooting, and I only have a USB cable.

The first TAKEPIC sets the exposure, the second one is a BULB exposure, so the camera goes into continuous shooting mode for one second and takes about 5 images per second.
It's important to have a good size delay to allow the CF card to catch up before the next image with a different exposure is taken.

My camera/card combination can take about 3 RAW images per second.
Before my script was limited by the 1 second delay to program the camera exposure. Now it's mostly limited by the CF card speed.

Does this make sense?

James

[philiphart]

This is probably a reasonable compromise without a serial cable. The main issue is I guess that you cannot use mirror-lockup? Not an issue with a 1/1500 sec exposure, but i think you can see it in the slower exposures (eg 1/30 sec).

Phil

[EclipseMaestro]

Solar Eclipse Maestro 1.8.3 (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/Solar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html) final release is now available.

Two versions are available: one Universal Binary to support Canon's legacy cameras and the other Intel to support the latest Canon cameras. All the Nikon DSLRs are supported by both versions and the same is true for all SBIG CCD cameras and their filter wheels.

[h0ughy]

great news indeed:thumbsup:

[EclipseMaestro]

No, the automatic scripted exposure bracketing is only available for Nikon cameras. Shooting during totality can be very easy as you can ask for 9 bracketed exposures with a step-size increment from 0.3EV to 3 stops.
The same is true for burst where the fps can even be scripted for Nikon cameras.

To my knowledge Canon doesn't allow to remotely control the exposure bracketing settings. And the exposure bracketing is quite limited on Canon cameras, but the latest, when you compare it to what Nikon is offering.

Unfortunately the dream camera would be a combination of Nikon and Canon features... something unlikely to happen anytime soon!

[EclipseMaestro]

If it's what it does, then EO is really buggy and the bulb exposure doesn't work properly at all! A one second bulb exposure is only one exposure that should last one second, nothing else.

[Moon]

If I turn off continuous shooting mode on the camera, then I get 1 x 1/500 exposure and 1 x 1 sec exposure as expected. For me the EO behaviour is as expected.

Correct. With mirror lock up enabled, single shooting is the only option available. The ideal option would be liveview, but you can't program the exposures in advance.

[gregbradley]

Has anyone been experimenting with their DSLR and different lens focal lengths and settings on a regular sun?

I am thinking for me TEC110 and Canon 40D and D800E with 24-70 F2.8 zoom so I can change the framing to suit. Perhaps 70-210 F4 may be better.

I think I will try out a variable ND filter to see if its any good. I suspect not but its worth a try.

1/8000th sec and ISO50 and lens stopped down to F12 may work.

Solar film filters give boring images so I am hoping to to not have to use that.

Greg.

[EclipseMaestro]

Just to let you all know that Solar Eclipse Maestro 1.8.3v2 (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/Solar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html) is now available.

There are two versions, one Universal Binary and the other Intel. The UB version does support Canon's legacy cameras (350D, 20D/20Da, 5D) but not the latest models such as the 1D X, while the Intel version doesn't support Canon's legacy cameras but does support all the latest models.
Of course all Nikon cameras are supported by both versions, and all SBIG CCD cameras with their filters wheels as well.

[gregbradley]

Does this work on Windows or only Mac?

Greg.

[EclipseMaestro]

Mac only.

[EclipseMaestro]

Just to let you all know that Solar Eclipse Maestro 1.8.3v3 (http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/Solar_Eclipse_Maestro_Photography_S oftware.html) is now available.

A minor fix was added for the scripted movie recording feature on Nikon cameras. No more updates will be done prior to TSE 2012.

There are two versions, one Universal Binary and the other Intel. The UB version does support Canon's legacy cameras (350D, 20D/20Da, 5D) but not the latest models such as the 1D X, while the Intel version doesn't support Canon's legacy cameras but does support all the latest models.
Of course all Nikon cameras are supported by both versions, and all SBIG CCD cameras with their filters wheels as well.

[gregbradley]

I guess the whole point of this automated approach is at total solar eclipse sites the exposures will vary a lot as it gets darker.

But for those who are only seeing a partial eclipse the exposure settings probably won't change too much.

Around Sydney with 60 something percent eclipse it may end up being fastest shutter speed, highish F ratio, lowest ISO.

I've been testing with various lenses.

A Nikon 24-70mm F2.8 ED seems the best so far with a variable ND filter blocking out a lot of the extra light. The trouble is with these filters is it makes the sky mostly black which could make for a not so great final image. The 24-70 showed some cloud when it was nearby but the 180mm or 300mm did not. Also the image took considerable enlargement before breakdown with a Nikon D800E. But still not what I would consider a beautiful image.

Any thoughts about how best to expose for partial eclipse? I would like to see some blue sky in the shot. Perhaps it will need a composite to achieve that. Or perhaps a HDR but even that, the brightness range would have to be massive to achieve a normal blue sky. So widerfield lenses may end up taking the better shot?

Greg.

[gregbradley]

Here are some test images I have taken so far.

http://www.pbase.com/gregbradley/image/147225630/large TEC110
http://www.pbase.com/gregbradley/image/147235689 Nikon 24-70mm Variable ND filter some high thin cloud
http://www.pbase.com/gregbradley/image/147235699 Nikon 24-70 variable ND filter no cloud

The telescope ones are yellowish/orange and to me look fine but no surrounding environment. Would be good for Baileys beads, the diamond ring etc.

The lens ones I used a variable ND filter to be able to expose it. The last one is dead boring with a black background. The ones with the high thin cloud look nice to me. That's 70mm.

I am thinking after doing this test that I should cruise the net looking for examples of eclipse images I like and see what setup they used. Otherwise I can see that these filtered images could be very boring indeed.

Greg.

[boardriderz]

Hi everyone,

I'm a little late to chime in here, but never to late I hope. I have arrived in Port Douglas for the eclipse and currently testing my gear for the event. I have my Orion Atlas EQ-G, AT6RC and AT65EDQ with 2 canon DSLR's all set to go. I will be using Eclipse Orchestrator Pro to run the cameras but haveing trouble getting it to talk to both cameras together???

Is anyone running Eclipse orchestrator and using it to run multiple cameras, which it is supposed to be able to do and if so how did you script it? I have a great script for the whole event programmed fore the 40D of over 120 shots. And if all else fails I wiull just run the script for the 40D/AT6RC combo and use a cable release and bracketing for the Corona shots for the 30D/AT65EDQ combo piggy backed on top.

The only other issue I have come across is that they have closed off a lot of access to the areas I have previously scouted to shoot from..... I now have to find a new place tomorrow, probably a little inland and up the coastal hills? Is anyone else watching it up in Port Douglas and have any suggestions?

Regards

Jimmy