View Full Version here: : Which Canon Camera Adaptor Do I Need Please?
Hi everyone :hi:
I hope someone can help me with this quick question.
I have a Canon EOS-1100 digital camera and I would like to use it on my 10" dob to catch the Venus transit.
The dob doesn't have tracking, but we've had a bit of fun poking a point and shoot camera to the eyepiece and that turned out fine.
Can you please tell me what adaptor I need?
And where I can get it from?
Would I be able to take some pics of some bright star clusters in this way?
Thank you everyone. :)
20-05-2012, 03:55 PM
You have a solid tube dob don't you Suzy.
You won't be able to reach focus with a dslr, without doing some modifications. :( Either cutting down the tube or pushing the mirror up the tube using longer screws.
Yes I do.
:sadeyes: Oh well, never mind.:sadeyes:
Thanks for your help Nettie.
I"ll count my blessings and be happy that at the end of the day that I can view the event all the same.:)
20-05-2012, 04:18 PM
You can still shoot Afocal as you have been doing. You will get some lovely shots that way. :)
Nettie, Russ was wondering if the 2" Ultra Wide Prime Focus adaptor as shown here (http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/) in this link would perhaps do the job? It's the pic on the left at top of the page.
20-05-2012, 06:44 PM
I've not used one. Maybe others on the forum have.
20-05-2012, 07:24 PM
What JJJ mentions is not technically correct I think.
When I had my 12" dob and my current 8" newt, I CAN reach focus with a DSLR using simply a T-ring and the 1.25" eyepiece adaptor.
As the Saxon 10" dob SHOULD be a Skywatcher with a different name stencilled on it...all you have to do is take the 1.25" adaptor, unscrew the barrel that holds the eyepiece and you will (should) be left with a flange that has a screw thread on the outside that then screws INTO the T thread on the T-Ring. Pop that onto the DSLR and away you go!
The 1.25" adaptor with the barrel removed is sufficiently low profile to enable you to reach focus with using a DSLR. Its only when you want to use a 2" MPCC or barlow etc, you will run into issues. I solved mine with a special low profile 2" focuser adaptor that screws DIRECTLY onto the focuser tube and eliminates the skywatcher adaptor completely.
I have attached pics of the 1.25" adaptor, the barrel removed, the T ring screwed on and then the whole combo that gets attached to my 1000D (same as your 1100D effectively).
This is what I first used when I got my 12" and 8" dob and CAN take photos in focus with it, albeit with some pretty bad coma around the edges of the frame, hence the need for an MPCC....
Give it a go, if you dont have a T ring, then you wont be able to, so you will have to go and buy one of those, $29-$49 depending on where you get them from. Just make sure its one for a Canon camera. Sirius Optics (I think where you buy your gear from?) has a T ring for $49.95.
Hope this helps, let me know if this is not clear.
A huge thank you to you for going to so much trouble with all that info and pics. It's helped a lot!
It's all clear and makes sense. Just one question .....
Hubby is pretty keen (if it'll work) to get the 2" Ultra Prime Focus Adaptor on the link I supplied above. Here it is again. (http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/) Please click on the pic and it'll come up with more info on it. I was able to copy & Paste info from link so here it is anyway.
It says that it's better than a T-Ring. So will this work for me?
If it will, I'll order it straight away.
2" UltraWide Prime Focus Telescope Adapter
for SLR/DSLR Cameras As seen in "Sky & Telescope" magazine.
The True-2 adapter goes directly from Bayonet mount to 2" barrel. Bypassing the restrictive T-Ring.
This increases the clear aperture up to 10mm over conventional T Ring adapters!
Wider is better! There is zero shading of the CCD sensor.
Available with or without safety Undercut on barrel.
Just say NO to T-Rings!
As the CCD chips in our DSLR cameras get larger it is ever more important to have an unobstructed light path to prevent vignetting. The manufacturers of high end telescopes wisely put 2" eyepiece ports on them. Why then do we insist on putting a 1.5" bottleneck between your camera and telescope?
T-Rings have been around for decades, a legacy standard as outdated as 300 baud modems. They exist not because they are the best solution for imaging, but because they are the best solution for manufacturing. After all it's much easier to spin a standard thread on all adapters, regardless of telescope port size or camera brand. The T-Ring may be convenient but it is simply out of its league on a telescope with a 2" eyepiece port.
True-2™ is a true 2" prime focus telescope adapter that takes you directly from the bayonet mount to a standard 2" barrel with as few wasted photons as is possible, adding as much as 10mm more clear aperture over legacy adapters! The largest clear aperture of any adapter on the market. And it costs little more than you would spend on a T-Ring and a quality 2" T-adapter. Baffled to reduce reflections and threaded for 2" eyepiece filters. Now also available with or without an undercut on the barrel. Don't choke the photons out of your camera with an inferior adapter!
Do you think I'll be able to take some pretty pics of some bright star clusters with this method?
Say... the Diamond cluster (NGC 2516), Jewel Box etc? Or bright nebs like M8 (Lagoon neb.)?
A bit off topic here, but I was going to msg you and ask you ....
A while back on facebook, you gave some instructions as how to use the dob for solar viewing with I think removing the small cap that fits on the big dust cap. Please, would you mind giving me those instructions again (either fb or pm).
I've ordered my Baader solar film and now I just need to know what to do (hubby will be doing it). Thank you!
21-05-2012, 11:23 AM
I used the exact same method as Chris describes. I can get focus at prime and with 2 2x barlows in front in the train. I have not used a dob, so i can't be much help re that.
You will be able to get ok cluster images like the ones on my fb but for Nebulae they need longer exposure and the image will turn out too blurry. Still good fun to try and see how much Neb you can get but it's not pretty lol.
As my mount is pure manual, 2 seconds at prime is pretty much the limit i can go before the image looks like one of my kids went crazy with the textas haha:lol:.
It would be really good if someone could lend you a t-ring like Chris showed in his post, you could try it, if you get focus, all well and good. Saves buying one if you won't reach focus?
21-05-2012, 12:59 PM
Umm, no, while the 2" UWA adaptor allows you to connect your camera directly to the 2" focuser adaptor, the problem will still be the HEIGHT of the 2" adaptor that comes standard on the Skywatcher/Saxon newts. Its about 2 inches tall and that means that with this 2" UWA TRing thingy you mention, you wont be able to reach inward focus as the 2" focuser adaptor is TOO TALL. (as per JJJ's comments)
However, with the 1.25" adaptor and the barrel removed as per my photos, you should be able to reach focus. As Steve mentioned, you will get closer to the objects at prime focus so without any tracking, you will easily get blurry stars even on relatively short subs. With your video mode on the 1100D though, you can set up the scope to let Jupiter or Saturn "slide" by the sensor and capture about 30 secs of data which you can then stack like I did before I got my HEQ5/8" newt combo.
If you CRANK the ISO up above 1600 you MAY get some nebulosity on M8/M20/M42, but you will be limited to a few seconds due to the speed of the earth's rotation at 1200mm+ Focal length.
The thing is, without tracking, you wont get much, however, planets are still a possibility and short subs can be tested. A T ring is better, if you buy an MPCC which fits into the T ring like the 1.25 adaptor does in my photos, as the MPCC becomes the 2" barrel anyway.
Here is the thread (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=87499) of mine that shows the focuser adaptor I bought which is SUPER low profile ($80 AUD delivered from the UK) and this REPLACES the Skywatcher adaptors completely and screws into the focuser tube, so I no longer have focus issues with the 2" MPCC fitted into the DSLR. If you do buy the 2" UWA, you would probably have to get one of these adaptors I got, in order to use it with its 2" barrel.
Hope this helps, I dont think what hubby mentioned is gunna work with the standard 2" focuser adaptor on the scope, so a standard T ring and the 1.25" adaptor (with the barrel removed) should and will allow you planets and maybe some DSO attempts depending on tracking (which you can do with your hand and with the finderscope to a limited degree...but it will be hard using an ALT-AZ dob.). If you had a equatorial platform, then tracking could be in one axis, but then its getting up there with the buggerising around factor, you may as well just adapt the DOB tub to an EQ6 and be done with it....;) More money as usual.....
Many thanks for all your help Steve & Chris. :)
I'd be very happy taking happy snaps of just of clusters alone (their my favorite things to observe). I have no desire to do planets. :ashamed:
Whoa Chris, thank you for going to all that trouble in that well explained post-you've helped Russ & I to make sense of it all.
No EQ mount etc for me, I don't want to get into astrophotography- I'll leave that up to you guys and just admire the pics while you all do the hard work.:lol:
20-06-2012, 02:00 PM
So i have a 6" skywatcher dob. all i need is a canon eos tring to attach my camera if i remove to 1.25" adapter. Is this right, because that will save some cash
20-06-2012, 04:33 PM
I agree with everything Chris has said. I simply unscrew the 1.25" adapter on my 8" Newt and attach my canon 400d using the t-ring. I only have about 5mm of inward travel remaining though when in focus.
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