Too many options for solar observing

[koputai]

I think I'd like to do some solar viewing, and am very confused about which way to actually go as far as equipment is concerned.

From what I understand there are two basic avenues, white light, or H-Alpha.

For white light, you can go either the full aperture front filter, or a Herschel wedge.

For H-Alpha, you need a dedicated solar scope, there being many varieties available.

Now I already have a few scopes that I can mount on my EQ-6Pro:
Meade 10" SCT
ED80
8" Newtonian
12" Newtonian

I could use any of these with a full aperture front filter. I think I could also use the ED80 with a Herschel wedge.

So, for white light, which way would be my best option?


And now to H-Alpha!

There are Coronado/Meade PST's and Solarmax's. The PST seems very basic, and I would imagine it lacks aperture. The Solarmax's seem better, but I have no idea what all the options mean..... Same with the Lunt beasties.

I don't want to spend more than about $2k, preferably less, preferably a lot less!

Which way should I go?

Cheers,
Jason.

[Derek Klepp]

Jason if your ED 80 is F6 you may have focus problems with certain eyepieces using a Solar wedge for WL . A barlow will generally help.As for Ha there are quite a few people here and we all use different make scopes and aperture sizes. As for aperture size for visual 60mm is good but many people use a PST and are happy with it. I am relatively new to this Ha so my opinion would be biased to what I have.Perhaps you can purchase a Coronado or Lunt Front filter with an adaptor for your 80mm and the appropriate rear blocking filter at a reasonable cost.
Derek

[alocky]

The cost of a front filter and blocking diagonal to put on a refractor is pretty much the same as a dedicated H-alpha scope. The main decision you need to make is whether or not you want a double stack. Most of them allow you to put the second etalon on as a retro-fit, so at least in my case, I went for the largest dedicated H-alpha that would fit my budget, with a view to getting the second etalon next 'budget cycle'. It's easily become the most-used telescope I own. Phase of the moon doesn't affect your observing! Even with a single etalon, there's plenty of prominences and surface detail to see on the sun, and if you have a planetary imaging camera, you can see so much more.
You definitely want to have a look through someone else's first - they're not cheap.
regards,
Andrew.

[casstony]

I'd recommend the Lunt 60mm pressure tuned solar telescope. The views from this are almost good enough that you don't need to double stack, but if you decide to buy a second filter any tilt tuned filter should work - no need to return it to the factory for matching.

I've just sold one of these to fund other toys; the contrast and sharpness of the scope alone is spectacular; adding the double stack brings out greater detail on the disc (plage, filaments) though that detail was still visible in the scope alone once you know what to look for. The best contrast for proms and spicules is with the scope alone. Combined prominences/filaments look 3D as they arc over the limb of the Sun.

[MikeyB]

No problem - here's two simple solutions that are ready to go, straight out of the box:

White light filter: Orion 80mm solar filter (http://www.bintel.com.au/Accessories/Solar-Filters/Orion-Solar-Filter---br--ED80mm---100mm-Refractor/1016/productview.aspx) ($99)

Ha viewing: Coronado PST (http://www.bintel.com.au/Telescopes/Solar/Coronado-PST/623/productview.aspx) ($649)

That's both your options covered for well under $1,000 and there's lots of good solar viewing ahead for you with them. You'll learn heaps with the basic PST and for all their virtues, the more costly Ha alternatives won't show you vast amounts more. Both items can be (and have been) used successfully for photographic work if the fancy takes you and resale of either is a cinch if you should decide solar isn't for you.

[frolinmod]

I have three "solar" telescopes:

1. Lunt LS80Tha/B1200/FT + DSII + Lunt zoom eyepiece.

Absolutely spectacular both with and without the DSII installed. In fact, I'm regretting a bit getting the double stacked LS80THa because a single stacked LS100THa would have been less expensive and likely even better I think.

2. SV80ED with an FT focuser + Lunt Herschel Wedge + Baader Solar Continuum filter + Lunt zoom eyepiece.

Rather unimpressive by comparison with #1. It shows the sunspots well and that's basically it.

3. Nexstar 8SE OTA + Baader solar film front mounted full aperture filter + Lunt zoom eyepiece.

I haven't had a chance to even look through this combo yet. When I do, I'll compare it with #2. Some people say that 8" is too big for typical daytime seeing conditions. We shall see.

The Lunt zoom eyepiece is good at low powers, but somewhat stinks at high powers. The price is right though.

I have an ADM side-by-side dovetail and dual saddle plates setup so that I can mount two scopes on the same mount at the same time.

[casstony]

Maybe a poor sample? The Lunt zoom I have is quite sharp at short focal lengths, whereas the vixen zoom I had was very soft at 8mm.

[frolinmod]

Alas, I have two of them acquired a few months apart and they both behave the same. I figure it's just the nature of the beast.

[Waxing_Gibbous]

Having viewed through it, I can state that Tony's scope (Lunt DS60 PT)is about as good as you'll ever need.
Really spectacular views of both surface details and proms and the Lunt zoom was, indeed, sharp throughout its range.

I'm trying to save for the same rig m'self!

[Paul Haese]

Being a viewer and imager of solar Ha my recommendation is to go for the largest aperture possible when talking about Ha systems. It does not matter whether you get a dedicated scope (although there are issues with hot spots in dedicated scopes for imaging) or use an existing telescope and put a filter set on that. When I buy another system it will be the later. My plan is to buy a set suitable for use with my TSA102 and get a double stacked 90mm or 100mm system.

I don't agree about single stack being as good as a double stack scope. In 60mm or greater the view alone is like chalk and cheese. I have compared two systems one double and one single and the surface detail was significantly deminished in the single stack 60mm as compared to the double stack.

Try for double stacking in whatever configuration you can afford.

As for white light I would tend to recommend the wedge. I have seen lots of fantastic images taken with these, but for affordability a front filter (film or glass) is the best buy.

[Merlin66]

I currently use a double stacked SM60/ BF15 set-up on my ED80 for Ha imaging. The double stack is definately the way to go for surface detail.
I also use a 88mm modded PST /BF10 for visual and proms....
For your budget you could easily achieve such a mod.....
We have succesfully modded over 40 PST's so far....and I'm sure more will be done in the future....
(I have a 6.5Mb write-up "PST Mods" available on request - drop me a PM for a copy)

[alocky]

It seems there's a bit of effort required to get the most out of a double stack system - there's been a bit of talk on the Lunt forum from people who've bought the second stack and taken some time (and some return trips to the manufacturer) to get the system working as advertised. At the end, most agree it was worth the pain.
Conversely - the views through my Lunt80 in single stack keep me occupied for now.
cheers,
Andrew.

[Merlin66]

I agree there's a bit of "white man's majic" required to tuning a pair of etalons, but once you appreciate and understand the concept it can be achieved by any user.
I have a sketch somewhere of the required "de-tuning" of each etalon for maximum results......when I find it I'll upload a copy....
EDIT: Here's the sketch - any question just fire away....

[Poita]

I can give you a look through a 60mm modded PST, that is really affordable and I find the views are fantastic. The only scope I would bother replacing it with costs about $6,000.
I am saving my pennies for a 2nd hand one, but until then, the PST offers fantastic views, once you modify it for more aperture.

By the way, if the dreaded FHWM word confuses you, then take a peek here:
http://www.noao.edu/wiyn/images/fwhm.html

[scagman]

Hi Guys,

I have to agree with Jason(Kopuai), that there is too many options even just within one brand/range of dedicated solar scopes, and also have a few questions.

Can someone explain what BF5,10,15,30 mean/do/differance and also B600,1200 & 1800.

Would a single stacked bigger diam be better than a smaller Double stacked scope? Eg. single 60 against a DS 40

[Merlin66]

Blocking filters are specified by their diameter....
In the Coronado range; BF5 = 5mm diameter, BF10 = 10mm diameter etc.
The Lunt use the same but a different system....B600 = 6mm diameter, B1200=12mm diameter.

A larger diameter Ha scope is always better!
The double stack only increases the Ha resolution by reducing the bandwidth from 0.7A to 0.4A....this effectively allows more Ha detail to be seen/ recorded.

[scagman]

Hi Merlin,
thanks for the clarification. Starts to make a bit more sense now.

[koputai]

So for my initial white light gear I'll go for a full aperture front filter.

Should I get it for the SCT 10" or the ED80? I expect the 10" would be better?

Cheers,
Jason.

[Merlin66]

IMHO I'd go for the ED80.....
The seeing conditions during the day are usually pretty unsteady and the smaller aperture can give as good results as the larger...
best time for observing/ imaging is certainly before noon.

[Poita]

I agree, I have solar filters for the 10" SCT and the ED80, for white light solar viewing there isn't much difference between the two.

[koputai]

Thanks guys, that's saved me $100 that I can put towards the Ha scope!

Cheers,
Jason.