Time lapse software

[TheDecepticon]

Howdy.

We are going away for the week end and I'm taking a camera and laptop to try to capture some time lapse shots.:rolleyes:

What do I use to put it all together and add music etc? I've tried Googling without too much of a result. I'm happy to try freeware or shareware, or even a purchase if it seems to be worth it.:question:

Cheers and clears,

Gray.:)

[Octane]

Adobe Premiere and Adobe After Effects.

I know some people use Sony's Vegas software, too.

H

[AndyK]

Adobe Premiere (expensive) or Premiere Elements (not quite as expensive) will do a decent job however if you're cheap like me you can do it in Windows Movie maker.
Just import all the individual images, click "Edit" then change the interval to something like 0.04 seconds (for 25 frames/sec) and you're done.
Here's a very rough example ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EZm2E_Su_o

[danielsun]

Picasa does a great job and it's free too! :thumbsup:

[Astroman]

Virtualdub, Sony Vegas, I mainly use.
I use www.freeplaymusic.com for my audio, and just throw a credit in to the movie.

[TheDecepticon]

Thanks guys, I'll have a look at all of those, however, did have a play with windows movie maker in Win 7 and I cannot save the movie. It throws up a screen saying cannot save movie and gives a link that does not work for more info on saving the files. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the music link too, that is awesome.:thanx:

For night time shots, is there any tips for exposure length, and number of shots to get a nice smooth video, or anything else that may not be obvious? I tried 30 sec shots tonight but I cannot seem to make it smooth.:question:

Cheers.:D

[Poita]

If you have a Mac the free iMovie app that comes with it does a fantastic job. If on linux cinelerra is free and truly excellent.

[bartman]

Dito :D
Bartman

[bartman]

In this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e_ELkJolYs) short but one of my first attempts at timelapse, I used 30 sec exp and picasa. ( I think I had the lens at 10mm, F3.5 and 800iso)
By smooth, do you mean jittery or the video flashes? If the vid flashes then it might be due to the camera being set on AWB. Dont use AWB when doing Timelapse.
Are you using an intervalometer? If not and the shots are not rapidly one after the other, then you might get the jitters aswell.

I'm not an expert, but these are some of my observations and stuff I picked up on the web!
Cheers and good luck Gray
Bartman
PS I might put up some more timelapses that I have done on my youtube thingy....soonish
PPS I have uploaded some more if you are interested.....

[iceman]

The longer your exposure, and the longer gap between exposures, the more jerky the movie will seem.

But, your exposure length has to be long enough to get the light you want.

If you have a 5D Mark II with a fast lens like f/2.8, then you can get away with 8 or 10 or max 15 s exposures at ISO800 or 1600.
But if you're like me, and have something not quite as good, then you'll need to do 30s exposures @ ISO1600 to get enough light.

And then just start the next exposure straight away. Don't have any gap between.

Here's my (now old) effort using those settings:
http://www.mikesalway.com.au/2010/10/19/a-night-in-the-hunter-valley-all-night-timelapse-from-iisac2010/

The daytime shots were obviously much shorter exposures.

[TheDecepticon]

Good info, guys, thanks.:thumbsup:

I will be using a Canon 40d and EOS Utility. Do I still need an inter-ma-call-it as the software has a set up to do the same sort of thing. Do you save to a lap top or to the cf card?:question:

[bartman]

I'm not familiar with the EOS utility, but if it has an option for taking shots automatically, then you wont need the inter-thingy-ma-jig.
I save to the card and then export to the puter, but i'm sure you can save to the laptop when using EOS.
HTH
Cheers
Bartman

[jjjnettie]

I love using Jasc Animation Shop. It comes with Paint Shop Pro, or as a stand alone. It has a Wizard, so very easy to use. :)

[Octane]

Bart,

The beauty of the intervalometer is that you don't need a laptop.

And, yes, EOS Utility does everything.

H

[bartman]

Yes very true!
Thats why I have one:D:P. Combined with a dual battery thingy. Similar to this. (http://www.amazon.com/Jenis-J-ND90-P-B-Professional-Battery-Nikon/dp/B001CNYV54)
Cheap but worth it for the moment.
Bartman

[TheDecepticon]

Well, thanks for all the info guys, and did I learn heaps over the weekend?:question:

You bet I did!!:eyepop:

The first thing I learned was I need an inver-thing-a-ma-jig!! Canon seem to have one for about $279 plus shipping, or I can find some on eBay, however, they are all ex-USA. Might cost me about $100 to my door, however I have not asked them about shipping to AUS. Any tips on local aftermarket products?

The second thing I learned was dew control will be highly likely!! It is very evident in this short one I had the chance to make.

When I work out how to get it down to web size, I'll put it for comments and advice.:D

[DavidTrap]

Try the non-genuine timer remotes on eBay - usually <$50 from Asia.

DT

[TheDecepticon]

OK, next question!

Ummm........ I thought it might be easier to work in jpeg files........ how do I calibrate my frames to get rid of the dreaded DSLR noise??:help:
Thanks David, I have been searching under intervalometer, I'll give timer remotes a go!:thumbsup:

[iceman]

This is all you need (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Timer-Remote-Canon-TC-80N3-RS-80N3-5D-40D-R8B9-/110499566726?pt=AU_Cameras_Photogra phic_Accessories&hash=item19ba499486).

Cheap as chips and works great.

For timelapses, small jpegs are best because you'll still be able to create HD movies at that resolution, and you can fit a tonne more shots on the card too.

If you want to do noise reduction or make stills from them etc, then RAW might be best, but it increases your processing by x1000 :)

[Astroman]

I use a program called Pixel fixer for my RAW timelapse frames to remove hot/cold pixels. It does make the whole process longer using RAW, but the control you have over the final product is worth it. Especially if you are only shooting for a short timelapse such as 10s @ 24fps you only need 240 frames bump that to 30s and you need 720 frames, manageable in photshop RAW.

[TheDecepticon]

Thanks Mike, that looks great and I might buy two at that price just in case I drop one or something. :thumbsup:

I have not had the chance to check out Pixel Fixer as yet as I am now back at work and time is against me again. I would really like to use darks as my camera tends to get some horizontal banding during long dark exposures, so I'll just keep chipping away at it.

I have tried to put toghether a few time lapses and will load them to the net when I can get it all sussed out with a format for the net that isn't 200mb.:)