Transporting a Losmandy - Cases?

[rogerg]

G'day all,

For the last few years I have carted my GM8 around in a plastic box. I stuff things around it in the box, some padding, some cables, bits and pieces that fit like dew heaters, etc. I'm thinking of doing something more "proper" to avoid situations like the worm being knocked during transit and meshing.

One thing which annoys me about the GM8 is how far out the motors protrude. Do people take the motors off to easily fit the mount in a case? I'm guessing that would ruin things like PEC?

Can anyone recommend specific cases which suit the GM8 with minimal wasted space?

I'm not after something which is excessively padded. An inch or less of padding all around with a solid outer wall is plenty I think, it only goes from observatory to car to site, no air freight or anything drastic like that. One of my biggest problems is fitting everything in the car, so I can't afford to have a oversize case/box with lots of extra space just for padding.

Thanks,
Roger.

[h0ughy]

Roger I have a pelican Case – cost a small fortune (around $600) two years ago but I get the head, the Gemini and a few other cables and stuff neatly packed away – I don’t have anything for the counterweights or tripod, oh and that’s for a G11. Will get a photo later – or have a trawl through IIS as I might have posted this before?

[Peter Ward]

Losmandy stopped supplying custom cases years ago...people just didn't want to pay for them.

Pelican make a number of different sized cases which can be easily adapted
to hold g-8's or g-11's.

[rogerg]

Thanks .. .tried trawling IIS but haven't found your pics, if you could give me the dimensions or product code that'd be very much appreciated. I suspect it's larger than I need if it holds a G11.



My problem has been finding a Pelican case which isn't excessively large yet which fits it. No comment on if it's normal or advisable to take the motors off to make it that bit more compact?

Thanks,
Roger.

[Omaroo]

Roger - not sure about the GM8, but I loathe the lack of engineering design apparent in the way Scott decided to mount and secure the motors on the G11. Great units that they otherwise are - the motor attachment is under-engineered I reckon. They are held with two soft aluminium threaded rods either side of each motor which screw into a threaded base, clamping the motor in. There are no slots cut on the end of the rods that you could use a flat bladed screwdriver on, which means that unless you cut some yourself with a Dremel, you have to use pliers to grip the rod ends to undo them, and then do them back up again. You have to be careful cutting slots, because the end of these rods are again tapped to accept the screws which hold the little plastic covers on. There is very little clearance there - so it's one of those situations where you can only grip and turn, grip and turn, grip and turn a little at a time. Even if you replaced the aluminium rods with steel - I wouldn't expect the female thread they screw into to last long with repeated use. I dread the day that the threaded end of a rod snaps off... they're only soft.

Given that - the motors are definitely not designed to be removed often - silly given how much they protrude. Not a problem if you don't have to consider safe carriage to your observing site and leave it set up in an observatory. I certainly wouldn't want to rest a G11's weight on them inside a case, that's for sure. Most cases of the correct lateral dimensions aren't sufficiently deep enough to provide adequate padding on each side.

[rogerg]

Interesting Chris... mine has hex screws holding the motor in. They're long and silver - I think steel not aluminium. A very small hex/allen-key fits in the end to turn them, they came with it, it has a ball-like end so you can screw them in from an angle.

So, mine doesn't sound as hard to take the motors on and off as yours, but still not the kind of thing I would enjoy doing every time to be honest.

Thanks for your input.

[Peter Ward]

All correct, the standard motor bolts are hex head stainless steel.

That said, lord knows I've pestered Scott many times on this, the stainless hex head bolts screw into the derin gearbox case.

Not a problem so long as you don't over torque the bolts. My recommendation would be buy a case deep enough to leave the motors in situ, but also to remove them if you intend on shipping the mount.

[wasyoungonce]

I saw some Losmandy cases (http://www.buytelescopes.com/product.aspx?did=4&p_id=5758&store_id=) whilst trolling "thefind.com (http://www.thefind.com/search?query=losmandy#page=6&local=0&price=$140-$600)" site.

$329USD.....probably no use to you unless of course you are willing to spend up.

[h0ughy]

I have a pelican 1650 case (http://www.pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1650)for the head of the G11 and the controller, cables and weight bar



prices here

http://www.shopbot.com.au/pp-pelican-1650-price-119026.html

http://www.myshopping.com.au/PT--113_Handbags_Luggage_Pelican__fs_98 90_e__

[Omaroo]

On the non-Gemini G11 as well? Mine are definitely aluminium and soft as heck.

[DavidU]

In the music industry we use SKB cases, Strong as hell.
Check the measurements for gm8 size
http://www.promusicaustralia.com/cases/SKB.htm

[Peter Ward]

Doesn't sound right. The stepper motors have integrated gearboxes which
are normally fixed with button hex heads, again stainless.

They are a quite robust fixing, as they bolt straight into the gear support plate..you should not have to remove them for transoprt.

[Omaroo]

Here's what is inside (under the ABS plastic cover) - no stainless, no button hex heads - just two really soft aluminium posts that (a) hold the motor assembly plate to the worm housing and (b) provide female threads for the plastic covers to be screwed to. This mount is 1 year old.

[rogerg]

Chris, does your mount have Gemini or the simpler motor drive? Perhaps the difference is that I'm referring to a setup with a Gemini + servo motors? If yours is Gemini, I thought when it came to Gemini the phone jack/RC style plugs were the older ones (more than 3 years old). Unsure what all this means for the style of screws though.

Roger.

[Omaroo]

G'Day Roger

No, I mentioned in post #10 that mine is non-Gemini. I plan to use an Argo Navis in (much) preference to Gemini. The Digital Drive motors are steppers and use the RJ-12-style plug rather than the DIN.

I had Gemini on mine for a couple of weeks but removed it to go back to the standard stepper system. I can't remember just how the Gemini servo motors were held on. I take it they are as Peter has described.:shrug: Sorry - I didn't realise until your last post that you had Gemini.

[rogerg]

Ahh, sorry Chris, I should've read more carefully :)

Yeap, I hadn't mentioned Gemini... my fault for not clarifying earlier :)

[Omaroo]

OK - can't help you then! :lol: LOL!

If the Gemini servos are fastened with proper steel allen-head bolts then you should be fine to remove them for transport and storage I've thought. It's just a nuisance though.... :doh:

[Peter Ward]

OK I now know what you have.

There are a few iterations out there.

Early versions have soft molded plastic covers, with the stainless button heads. If you remove the aluminium posts from yours you will find a stainless centre hex thread which the post screws into. A similar arrangement is used for the metal stepper covers.

From an engineering perspective the aluminium spacer posts are more than adequate. Sure, if you drop the head and give the stepper a significant wack you will probably bend something there, but for normal use the system only has to hold a 1/4 hz, few inch/ounce torque rated stepper to hold in place....not a 428 bhp V8 :)

[Omaroo]

No doubt! :)

At the end of the day, if you position your G11 inside your case wuth the motors up, and don't resort to flipping the case over at any time - letting the entire weight of the head slam down on them, the motors will be fine.

The aluminium post onto s/s studs is fine for holding the motor on - but no good for repetitive removal.