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janoskiss
11-08-2005, 04:22 PM
While doing the mirror refit as per Geoff's Howto (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/index.php?id=63,206,0,0,1,0&hashID=1053e906e95f2688a473adbef7e2 a9ce) being discussed on the GS Dob optics (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=3370) thread, I've noted that the mirror is only supported on three cork pads at its edges. From the little I know about mirror cells I suspected that this may not be enough to stop an 8" mirror from flexing too much. I don't know what the mirror cells are like on the bigger Dobs, so this may only be relevant for us little dobbers.

After a bit of digging around, I found the relevant information in a review article on a bunch of 8" Dobs:

Alan M. MacRobert, Sky & Telescope, Jan 2000, volume 99, issue 1, page 60.

One of the Dobs considered was the Orion XT8, which has the same construction as the 8" GSO Dob. I am sure that the S&T people will forgive me for posting a few short relevant passages from the article:



So there's another mod to add to the list. Stuffing felt under the mirror does not sound all that appealing to me though. How much felt is enough how much is too much? The problem really is that any more than 3 fixed support points and you no longer have all of them in a plane... Has anyone got a better suggestion on how to improve mirror support?

janoskiss
12-08-2005, 12:50 AM
Yelp! :help2:

I was going to fit the 180mm mirror mask tonight but waited for any response on the mirror cell question first, but I got none so far :(

I went to the hardware store and got the thinnest sheet of outdoor plywood for the mask, and a can of black chalk board spraypaint. But now that I know what I know, I'm going to try to experiment with making a better mirror support before anything else.

RAJAH235
12-08-2005, 01:25 AM
Steve, in answer to the mirror support, provided you start with 2 flat surfaces, it shouldn't matter how many pieces of felt you place there. They will all take an equal amount of weight as they compress. Try it with 6 or 9 pieces spaced equally. You said you needed to re-collimate anyway. :D L.
99.

elusiver
12-08-2005, 10:50 AM
i wouldda thought a little section of felt padding right behind where the centre spot is would do the trick, as that's out be the thinnest part of the mirror bearing the most weight. as to how much felt.. it'd be a trial an error thing.. kinda like milk bottle washers. Only thing to be wary of would be stacking the felt too high.. as i wooulda though this would cause astigmatism outwards.. and also.. to keep the felt pieces fairly small.. so to mot effect the eairflow behind the mirror too much.

el :)

rmcpb
12-08-2005, 11:00 AM
I think that is the last place to put a support because of the same reason. As its the thinnest part of the mirror it can be pushed "out" easiest. Its for this reason that the mirror is supported in a ring about 70% of the diameter becauses the narrow, thick outer circle balances the wide, thin inner circle and causes the least flexition of the mirror.

If you are using felt and not glue give it a try, it won't hurt anything except that you will have to recollimate the scope again.

elusiver
12-08-2005, 11:03 AM
good point rob.. guess all we can do is try. There's been a couple of methods posted so far... so we'll get to the bottom of this soon :D

el :)

Starkler
12-08-2005, 11:07 AM
If someone can post pics of the 8 inch mirror cell maybe those that havent seen it can make suggestions.

janoskiss
14-08-2005, 12:47 AM
I've implemented a fix, see my post on the new ATM forum (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=39975#post39975). :D

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~janosk/mcell-mod-pics/mcell-mod-012.jpg (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=39975#post39975)

ausastronomer
14-08-2005, 06:43 PM
El,

This would only occur if the mirror clips were overtightened but if the new pads are not of a very similar height to the existing pads they will be self defeating anyway.

Janos,

FWIW the primary mirror cell issues with these 8" scopes were rectified nearly 5 years ago. The mirror cell design has changed at least 3 times (probably more) in the period since Alan MacRoberts S & T test report.

If you have any astigmatism issues it should be evident in a simple star test as I described in the GS Optics thread. If its not broken don't fix it.

CS-John B

janoskiss
15-08-2005, 01:31 AM
John B, I have already done the mod but have not had the chance to see if it made any difference. The GSO mirror cell I have looks pretty simple, and as described in the 2000 S&T report, with the mirror resting on three cork pads at the edge of the mirror.

Unfortunately the weather gods have seen what I've been up to so it may be some time before I can see the results of my efforts, if any.

ausastronomer
15-08-2005, 01:12 PM
Steve,

I just had a look at the photo of your original cell in the other thread, I didn't realise it had no central support at all, how old is your scope ?

What you have done should work fine anyways, just be a little wary of the plywood warping with moisture. I notice you have used "outdoor ply" and that should be fine.

CS-John B

rmcpb
15-08-2005, 01:21 PM
Ever thought of using silastic aquarium glue to hold the mirror onto the mirror cell? If the felt pads are replaced with a dob of glue and a spacer set to hold the mirror off the metal then all should work. I use a 3/16" drills for spacers then remove them when the glue has dried. This makes the issue of the side clamps distorting the mirror redundant as they are simply not used.

As for the moisture issue. Hopefully it is a non event as many ATM scopes have wooden frame parts that are not affected if they are sealed properly. For this a good couple of coats of polyurethane should do the trick.

elusiver
15-08-2005, 01:33 PM
so you have your primary fixed to your mirror cell with that glue stuff and discard the side clamps? how strongs the glue??? that's the only thing that'd make me seem reluctant to use that method.

el :)

rmcpb
15-08-2005, 01:41 PM
Commonly done in the ATM world. It is the glue that hold aquariums together so holding a mirror is chicken feed for it. The main thing is to ensure an even contact of the glue to the mirror and mirror cell. As it never goes really hard (its rubbery) if the mirror cell expands or contracts relative to the mirror there is a bit of give in the setup.

janoskiss
15-08-2005, 03:31 PM
John B, The scope should be the current or very recent model. I bought it from Andrews in January this year.

ausastronomer
15-08-2005, 04:18 PM
Steve,

I am somewhat baffled as to why they would go back to that design, especially when they had issues when GS made the original XT8's for Orion in 1999 and 2000 with a similar designed cell. That having been said, I didn't look at the design of the mirror cell on Gary's (Cahulian) 8" GS dob but it is only a recent purchase and it has no astigmatism at all, optically excellent.

CS-John B

rmcpb
16-08-2005, 08:16 AM
Mine has the same setup and is about a year and a hlaf old.