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View Full Version here: : Saxon 10" Dob preview - fresh out of the box!


janoskiss
21-12-2006, 12:46 AM
Got my new Saxon (aka Skywatcher) 10" Dob today! :) Purchased from The Telescope Shed (John Izzo).

Here is a first look preview, fresh out of the box! No first light yet though.

Brief summary: I am very impressed with the Saxon Dob. Better built and better thought out than the GSOs, with some very nice, indeed surprising, attention to detail. Of course, like all off-the-shelf scopes, it's not perfect, but so far I am very happy overall.

In more detail:

-> Photos to go with most of this so check them out.

The GOOD:

Teflon washer around centre bearing included. And it's the right size!! No milk jug washers for this baby! :D Centre pivot bolt is also nickel plated.

Great big beefy collimation and locking screws with nice easy and smooth action! Springs are plenty strong enough to hold the weight of the mirror without sagging. No change in collimation after tightening locking screws. No discernable shift in collimation from 25deg to zenith. A small shift observed going from 25 to 0 degree altitude (locking screws loose or tight makes no diff).

This is what I do with any Newt I buy: Pull the mirror cell out. Undo the mirror clips. Loctite the screws (so they don't fall out in transit) and put the clips back in very loose so they apply no pressure to the mirror. Well guess what? That is already done on the Saxon! There is about 0.5mm clearance between the mirror and the clips, and the screws are loctited in place. I could rotate the mirror in its cell which is how it should be. There are six clips, which IMO is an overkill, so I removed three. There was no markings on the mirror under the clips I've removed.

The primary mirror looks immaculate. No chips in the sidewalls like on both my GSOs (not that this would affect the views but still it's nice :)) The mirror I'm told is made of pyrex glass, and made in the US (the scope itself is made in China). I would not know how to tell pyrex from the rest, but the glass looks clear, while my other scopes have glass that has a greenish tint.

Centre spot precisely placed in centre, to the nearest 0.5mm I could measure.

No plastic housing for secondary means the central obstruction is just the mirror and nothing else. Central obstruction measured at 50-51mm. Aperture measured at 255-256mm => Central obstruction no greater than 20% (compare with 25% for GSO Dobs).

The secondary is glued in place on a smaller holder behind it, so there is no mirror clip and no retaining screw in the light path. All screws affixing spider to mirror holder are also well behind the secondary, making for a nice clean circular central obstruction.

Eyepiece holder on front of the base not on the side, so no more worrying about kicking my EPs or smokers looking through my scope inadvertantly using my Pentaxes as ashtrays.

Heads of screws for holding mirror cell and "spider cell" (?) to ends of OTA are sufficiently large to properly cover the holes in the OTA. This is not the case for GSO Dobs (incl. Lightbridges I've looked at) where the screws heads are barely larger than the holes. It might not seem like a big deal but what I am consistently seeing in this scope is attention to detail. Good!

Instructions are good. I haven't read them extensively because the pictures tell the story well, but when I needed to refer to them I found what I was after. All tools are included, including philips head screwdriver, allen keys and two spanners. The screwriver was a little undersized for the screws for the feet though (can make do but better get a beefier one for these).

The finish of the components is very good. The base is high density chipboard, but it is very well laminated. There is no bare chipboard exposed anywhere on any surface or edge, and the laminate/edging is well and truly stuck onto the boards.

Paint looks good, and tougher than the coat of silver-grey on most of the GSOs. But I already knew that. ;)

The two silver top plossls: 10 and 25mm. Good starter pair. I have used this type of EP before and they are quite nice. They hold up well against top brand plossls.

The scope can be picked up and carried as a whole unit by the tensioner handles. Not as easily as the 8" but still quite grab-n-goable.

The not so good and the the indifferent:

Rack and pinion focuser and it does have a bit of backlash. It has a larger footprint than a GSO focuser, so the GSO crayfords will not bolt on. I am not sure if there is even enough room around the hole in the OTA to drill holes for fitting the GSO focuser. You can buy ED80 style Crayfords from Saxon that bolt straight onto the bracket, but I would prefer the GSO with the 10:1 geared fine focuser.

Secondary collimation needs allen key.

No bump cushioner for OTA at zenith. My first mod: a bit of felt on the base.

Altitude bearings are "sticky". They squeak and creak before they get moving smoothly. Mick Pinner recommended a bit of graphite. Going to try that tomorrow. I will also consult with John Izzo and Daniel(sun) to see if they have any tips. Teflon might be the go (the big bearings are nylon).

Focal length is just 1200mm. With an aperture of about 255mm, this makes the scope an f/4.7, which means it will be extra fussy with eyepieces. The OTA is nice and compact though and I already have EPs that will work fine at f/4.7, so I don't mind.

The OTA sits quite high in the base. You can see it in one of the photos next to the GSO 8". There is heaps of room underneath. I'd prefer if it sat closer to the ground, which would make the whole setup more stable and seated observing near zenith easier. I might just have to do something about that too... :confuse3:

Oh, and no ebony star on base board! But who am I kidding, right?

That's about all I have to say about this scope till first light. :)

janoskiss
21-12-2006, 12:48 AM
More pics.

ballaratdragons
21-12-2006, 01:22 AM
Traitor!!!


:lol:
Glad you are happy so far with it Steve, you use them enough to get a better quality one. :thumbsup:

iceman
21-12-2006, 06:05 AM
Looks nice Steve, be interested to read its performance on first light.

stellarquest
21-12-2006, 06:44 AM
Congrats on a fine new scope!.A thought. Instead of a piece of felt for the bump cushioner for the OTA, I use a rubber self adhesive appliance cushion. The ones that are often called "feet".I blu tack the cushion on the tube, peel away the backing, and the cushion goes right where it should on the base. There are some very nice small spongy cushions out there.\Stellarquest

Starkler
21-12-2006, 08:07 AM
A nice improvement on the 8" f5 saxon dob I had a few years ago which had countersunk philips head collimation screws and hex grub lock screws.

janoskiss
21-12-2006, 09:39 AM
Sorry Ken. :P If I want to look through a 12" dobbie I know where to find you. ;)


I actually did not use felt but a small strip of stick-on velcro, the soft "furry" half, because I just happened to have some around.


I'm pretty keen to see it too, Mike. Going away for the xmas break and the new scope is coming with me. I will report when I get back. :)


Geoff, the instructions still refer to hex and philips head collimation screws, so it's probably a recent upgrade. I guess enough people complained and/or went for the competition for them to take notice.

Incidentally the instructions are quite thorough. Assembly, observing tips with things like cooling, dark adaption, light pollution, seeing, 2 pages on collimation and star testing, and warning about the Sun including eyepiece solar filters. Few discrepancies between product and description (like the collimation screws) but nothing major.

ving
21-12-2006, 09:41 AM
so let me see...
1x 8" f4 dob
1x 8" f6 dob
1x 12" f5 dob
1x 10" f4.7 dob

steve, i hate to be the one to tell you this but dobs are not pokemon! you dont have to collect them all!!! :P

that 10" looks pretty good :)
interesting that your GSOs had chips in teh primary mirror. mine is completely chip free :shrug: and i dont know about your 8" GSO but mine has big beefy collimation screws in teh primary :)

let us know how first light goes :)

janoskiss
21-12-2006, 09:49 AM
I just need a 6" now and I'll have a full house!


Luck of the draw I guess.


Not quite like the ones on this 10". On the 8" the GSO collimation screws are adequate, but the same ones on the 12" leave a lot to be desired. I cannot collimate the 12" without using a screwdriver. And I'd have to collimate twice. Once with the actual collimation screws and then again using the locking screws, because of the saggy springs.

ving
21-12-2006, 09:57 AM
see now thats strange. my collimation screws are much the same as the ones on your new scope... the 12" ers are prety pathetic i know.

PeteMo
21-12-2006, 11:27 AM
Thanks Steve
This has certainly helped me decide that my next dob will be a 10" SkyWatcher.
Glad you like your new toy.

Starkler
21-12-2006, 01:11 PM
Maybe the new Orion crayford might fit :confuse3:

danielsun
22-12-2006, 01:13 PM
Great stuff Steve and welcome to the elite Saxon club!! Have you been inducted and learnt the secret Saxon hand shake yet?:lol:

Yes, i think the first thing i did was screw a thick poly rubber pad as a bumper stop.

Dont worry about the height between the OTA and the rocker box it allows you to fit encoders for an Argo Navis with no problem.
The squeak is a little bit of a problem, so far i found that the black bearins on the sides needed a little tightening which helped a little and secondly i modified it by replacing one of the white nylon rollers on each side with encased roller bearings and a little bit of silicon spray.The squeak is not completely gone but probably 90%, i would be interested to see how you go with the graphite.
I also glued a peice of flat poly rubber from clark rubber between the alt bearing and the side of the malemine because i had a bit too large a gap between the two and this helps lock the ota in place much more firmly with the tensioning handle when using heavy ep's and barlows! It probably did not need it but I'm a bit of a tinkerer and if i can try to improve something a little i will.

Well i'm glad your happy with it so far and yes i agree one of its let downs is the focuser though you can fit a crayford but you must drill 4 new holes in the ota and you would need to use an extension tube.

cjmarsh81
01-01-2007, 08:49 AM
Congrats on the new Dob.

Why bother removing the extra mounts on the primary mirror? Even if they are overkill they don't make any difference to the image do they?

I have never noticed my scope being squeky. Haven't used it in a while though. If you do find a crayford focuser that bolts straight on in place of the rack and pinion please post it. I have been wanting to change mine for a while but don't want to drill holes.

Starkler
09-04-2007, 04:12 PM
They add to the diffraction noise seen, degrading contrast. How significant that effect is I dont know.

astro_nutt
10-04-2007, 10:08 AM
Congrats Steve with your new scope..I have one of these beauties and done a few mods to it as well..
I sealed all the exposed particleboard edges of the base assembly with a smear of silicone and allow to dry before putting it all together.
Use a good quality car wax and give the white laminate surface a go over..it wouldn't hurt to give the white enamal on the optical tube the same treatment!!
The side bearings didn't give me any trouble with squeaks..but you could try rubbing a candle on them and buff off after.
The secondary mirror adjustment screws..(4mm x 20mm allen head grub screws)..started to burr after the first attempt to collimate and were replaced with better quality ones from the local bolt supplier..(about $7.00 for 20).
The focuser rack-and-pinion drive was de-greased and replaced with high-temp bearing grease..the focuser sleeve was removed and given a very light buff with a dry soft cloth...after careful assembly and adjustment it performs very smoothly!!
I found a small cooling fan from a computer..made a bracket from a sheet of 3-ply with a few spacers..(about 10mm)..to make some room between the fan and mirror cell..power the fan with a small 9 volt battery will last about 2 hours.
Once collimated..(which is a delight to do!)..I find it holds it's collimation quite well even after long trips and requires a minor tweek!
I used the original packing moulds halves cut down to size and glued into the original box to make an insert for the carboot to transport the optical tube which is held in place with a pair of occky straps.
I too like to tinker..so I built another mount..(motorized)..which I mainly use and kept the original to store the scope on.
Finally..wishing you many years of viewing pleasure!
Cheers!