Please Help - Massive Drama with my STL-11000

[Entropy]

Hi all,

So, finally fitted all the filters that I bought and tried to give the camera a workout tonight. While I was doing some daylight testing I noticed that my filter wheel wasn't rotating, Took the cover off and discovered that the connection plug between the elctro-optical device and the camera had snapped off inside the camera. (See picture below)

http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w550/Scott_Dimmock/6330a7d2-d27f-447a-870c-0876aee357d9_zpsfjoaci8l.jpg (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/Scott_Dimmock/media/6330a7d2-d27f-447a-870c-0876aee357d9_zpsfjoaci8l.jpg.html)
http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w550/Scott_Dimmock/abedd654-9a34-4090-87f1-47cfa5cda402_zpsgfa5hhws.jpg (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/Scott_Dimmock/media/abedd654-9a34-4090-87f1-47cfa5cda402_zpsgfa5hhws.jpg.html)

So.... How bad is it?
Do you think I will be able to get replacement parts?
Do you think it is possibly repairable, and if so, will that involve a trip to the states for the camera?
Do you think a spot of hot glue gun between the PCB and connector will get me through for a while?
What do you guys think?

I honestly feel sick, I haven't pointed it at a star yet.

Thanks

[luka]

The pictures are a bit small to be sure but it looks like the connector could be resoldered to the board. Are the pins OK or are they broken/bent? If everything is OK, perhaps someone nearby with good soldering skills could help.

A larger photo of the connector could be useful to see the actual damage.

Definitely do not use the hot glue!!!

[Entropy]

Here's a closer photo that's only slightly out of focus. (Sorry about that)

http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w550/Scott_Dimmock/PC130196_zpsjxlmc2sv.jpg (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/Scott_Dimmock/media/PC130196_zpsjxlmc2sv.jpg.html)

If you were to try and get this repaired, is there anyone who commercially does this type of work?

EDIT: Forgot to answer your other question, nothing looks bent or snapped on the connector

[rally]

As stated hot glue wont work !

Did the Connector break off the copper pads in the middle of the solder joint or did the copper pads literally peel off the circuit board ?

I cant be sure from those photos, but my guess is the copper tracks are gone.
I am wondering how that could have happened ?
It would take a fair amount of force or repeated extreme wiggling to do that ! Unless all those pads had bad dry joints.

Anyone who does surface mount repair work could do this for you - so probably any electronic repair workshop these days, but they will need to clean up the connector and the board - assuming the tracks are still there.
If the copper tracks/pads have torn off with the connector - then really you'll want a new board from SBIG.
Although it should be possible to repair it - my concern is more about how this could have happened and how to ensure it doesnt happen again.

[JA]

Judging by the pics (better res would be better also all sides of device) it appears that the device is surface mounted and the soldering would be just that much harder as the pitch of the contacts is probably around 1mm judging by the image. It would help to see the device in situ and photographed from both sides to be more certain of a opinion or fix.

But given you've just started using it, did you receieve it damaged like this? Talk to the vendor perhaps.

Best
JA

[luka]

It looks like it was not soldered properly in the first place, otherwise it should have not come out so "nicely" without damage. Was it a new device?

I forgot to ask, are all pads OK (metallic looking) on the PCB where the connector was originally soldered. Again the photo was a bit small...

[Entropy]

Here's as close as I could get to the PCB.
http://i.imgur.com/SBjOSQb.jpg
I get the feeling that that's not a good thing...

The camera is an old STL-11000m and the PCB has a date on it of 2003. I bought it second hand and have tested the filter wheel successfully once prior to boxing it up and waiting for the purchase of the actual filters.

The age of the camera has me worried I wont be able to get replacement parts...

Thanks all for the help so far, it is much appreciated

EDIT: http://i.imgur.com/Slr2X58.jpg here's a better shot of the connector

[rally]

Its still difficult to be sure, but I think the copper pads are still there, based on the silver grey colour of the feet on the connector (dry joint or fractured broken joint) and the reflected white/silver colour on the board - but I really cant tell if that is just reflected light off the white substrate or solder that is a dry joint/fractured.

I would have expected the feet to be gold, brown or copper coloured and the board to be darker, but anyone inspecting the board for you will be able to tell in an instant.
Im really guessing with those pics

If you have a multimeter - put it on ohms and measure across one of the pads without touching the far edges of the pad.

Do not measure across two different pads as I have no idea what sort of circuitry those pads connect to or what sort of multimeter you have

If it still conducts you have a pad (good news) if it doesnt conduct (that means you are just touching bare non conductive circuit board) then its gone (not so good news) but not necessarily bad beyond repair.

How deep are the craters where the pads came off - if they are deeper than the surrounding board then not so good, but if the same height or higher thats good!

Do you have any idea how or when the connector broke off the board ?

You can always contact SBIG and send them your best pictures - Im sure they will get back to you quickly with availability of parts or repair options.

Without checking one of mine, it looks like the connector is not double edged - ie all the connections from both sides of the connector pads appear bridged on the PCB so that actually makes it easier to salvage as you arent quite so constrained about how you might repair the board or reattach the connector.

[Entropy]

Just checked with a miltimeter and did manage to get a measurement across one of the pads. So how fully that's a good sign. I might try to cover all bases and give diffraction limited a call in the am and call a local electrician and see if he can provide a more immedited solution. Fingers crossed.

The way the filter wheel is designed the plugame disconnects andreconnectso every time you remove the cover and I think 13 odd years just caught up with it.

[JA]

On the connector It looks like there is only solder / solderpaste on the contacts (rather than any torn-off solder pads) so it should be able to be repaired by a competent electronics repair tech with Surface Mount Device capabilities. On the PCB image things are not as clear, but even if the solder pads are torn off they should be able to be rebuilt by hand with solder as there is some solder pad still present. Good Luck !!!

Best
JA

[rally]

Dont use an electrican - this is not a job for a standard household electrican - its a job for an electronics technician !

If your electrician even has a soldering iron - it wont be the right type for this - probably too big and clumsy, too cold, unregulated and quite possibly has stray voltages that might kill your CMOS circuitry !

They'll need a desoldering tool, the correct surface mount flux and cleaners and a modern surface mount soldering station, with the correct heating nozzles etc

The solder used is probably not the regular high lead solder its more likely to be lead free solder or paste and it needs higher temperatures etc
But I dont know that for sure from the pics.

You'll need to take it to someone who specialises in modern electronics repair - I am sure someone on ISS in your region can point you there.
Maybe ask the local CB radio specialists who they get to do their repair work ?
Its not complex, but you do need the right gear and you do need to know what you are doing otherwise more damage than good will be done.

[luka]

As the others said, it does not look too bad. It should be resolderable after a bit of cleanup of the old solder.

Not sure where you can find professional help in your area but they must be skilled in surface mounted soldering.

[bojan]

Repair of this problem is piece of cake.... provided the whole thing worked before the accident (it seems the connector snapped off the PCB because of external force, fall on the hard surface maybe? or perhaps the (too short) cable was pulled in wrong direction while manipulating the board?).
Anyway, if nothing else was damaged, the repair (soldering) will be easy to do for anyone with suitable, sharp-tip temperature controlled soldering iron and microscope.
Send the PCB to me and will do it for you. Of course, no guaranties if something else pops up as a problem.

[Entropy]

Thank you all very much for your help.
I found an electronic tech in my area that can Surface Mount Solder and he said he would take a look at it for me tomorrow. I also have had an offer from someone on the forum of which I am greatly appreciative of.
And worse comes to worst, I have spoken to SBIG repair man and he has replacement PCBs in stock he could mail out to me express

All in all, i'm significantly happier than I was 2 nights ago.

Thanks again

[wasyoungonce]

Yes I had a look...that is a poor surface SMD re-melt. That can easily be fixed with some good 63/37 or 60/40.

That type of fail is quite common with non-lead solder. Many laptop PCB fail from solder fractures like this. Almost impossible to find so alot of places just do re-heat to see if it fixes.

But that de lamination fracture can be fixed.

[Entropy]

I took it in and he fixed it for me before I even had a chance to walk up the road to get a coffee.
He said exactly what Brendan said... it was about the solder type. It now has shiny silver solder on it now.
He did warn me though that the solder bond is a lot stronger now and therefore if it happens again it will take the pads with it.

Either way, very happy that my filter wheel spins again.

Thanks all for the great advice and calming influence :)

Entropy

[wasyoungonce]

Good to hear its all good now.:thumbsup: